I had my rotors on my 08 replaced under warranty last year. As everyone has been saying, find another dealer if possible.

 

I just want to share with you all that I too had the dreaded tsk-tsk-tsk sound coming from my front end without the front brakes applied. No pulsation when applying the brakes but that damn sound was driving me insane. It was loud enough that fellow riders had often commented about the racket coming from the front end! $22K into a new HD and less than 10K miles and this is the **** we get to deal with?? Took it to the stealer-they told me that the noise was common and didn't affect performance nor were there any service bulletins relating to the noise. The tech did suggest swapping the rotors left and right. I asked about new pads, warped rotors, etc. Tech claimed it could be any of those but they would have to keep it to diagnose.
Well, the pads were definitely the cheapest/easiest thing to give a shot so I figured WTH. Bought a set of Ebay for a real good price and put them on. The noise is gone and the bike stops better than ever. And for those of you wondering the brand name of the pads......nope they weren't the high $$$ Lyndall Golds. I chose a set of Kevlar reinforced pads manufactured by NHC-dual front+rear and got 'em for less than $40 shipped to my door. I'm going to tell you, they absolutely fixed the noise and you can't go wrong for the price. I have over 4K miles on them and they're still working great with no noise.
Don't let the guys at the dealer tell you different men, buy some pads and take care of that noise. I'll bet the farm that in most cases the stealer sells the customer brand new rotors, new/rebuilt calipers and pads and the answer was really just the pads! Hope this helps some of my biker brothers!

 

Well I stopped by the dealer today and told them about the low spot on each rotor and that I was able to eliminate the pulsing by rotating one of the rotors a 180'. They said all that they check for is to see if a rotor is warped and agreed that if the rotors had a worn low area on them that it was a manufacturer defect. They agreed to replace the rotors under the warranty. Thanks for all the help and advice from everyone.

 

Wow how convenient after you did their job, now they will get paid from the factory for the warranty with no diagnostic time. Crooks

 

Glad you got it figured it out Don and I couldn't agree with bagman more.....thieves

 

www.lyndallracingbrakes.com makes some real niece rotors if you need new ones.

 

I have always considered that one of the benefits of floating rotors is that they increase stopping power: The slight lateral movement allowing the pads to obtain maximum & uniform contact with the rotors.

No?

 

Obviously you know how thick .001 is. (to those who do not a sheet of notebook paper is .003) I have a Honda CRV with low mileage the does the same thing you described. Started after the first time the ABS was activated. If you push normal braking you can fill shaking side to side in the steering wheel. Push hard and it goes away. I though bleeding the brakes made it go away but seem to come back. Pulled the wheels and did a dial indicator reading and maybe have .001 run out. Did the mike check and have the .001-.0015 low spot just like you. Hard to believe you can fill it. Of course in my car there is little to do except get them machined on the car. But let the wheels get sync 180 and it goes away only to come back when synced together. Floating disk would not help this kind of condition.

 

I bought the Harley floating rotors because my stock RK rotors were driving me nuts! 2000 mi later the floating rotors are just as bad. I'm looking for a solution too.

 

If you have access to a micrometer you can measure the thickness of the rotor to see if it has any low spots. I have been doing a lot of research on brake pulsing and one theory is that brake pad deposits on the rotor can leave varying thicknesses on the rotor causing the pulsing. The deposits can supposedly be sanded off with Garnet sand paper. It tried this with no results. When I checked the thickness of the rotors and found the low spot on each rotor in the same area then it started to make sense that the rotor was differently across the surface. It could be poor manufacturing of the rotor or it could be that the rotors were heated to a point that it changed the hardness of the steel. Whatever it was, I make sure to ride a while to let the brakes cool off if I make a hard stop or do some practice stops before coming to a full stop. I haven't been able to find any information about either of these circumstances causing rotor wear. I think people for whatever reason just say warped rotor and install new ones. If I had access to a Rockwell machine then I could have checked the surface hardness on my old rotors to see if this was the cause of the uneven wear. Oh well, I have new rotors and will try not to overheat them.