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Red Hot Rear exhaust? HELP!?!?!

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  #11  
Old 06-04-2011, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Rickr01
The rear cylinder is behind the front cylinder. It gets less air, and typically runs hotter than the front. Certain Tuners address this to some extent. The fact remains, the rear cylinder even in a well tuned motor runs hotter. It is not at all uncommon to see the later Harley's rear pipe right where it exits the head glowing red at night.
This is the most POSITIVE of all possibilities that crossed my mind---I did purchase SE gaskets to replace the V&H (or add to them...I've read some peeps put 2 on them....) ones and will most likely do that tomorrow....thanks to all of you!
 
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Old 06-04-2011, 08:26 PM
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Some progress--no intake leak (WD40).....pulled exhaust and placed TWO SE gaskets in the place of the V&H---thought I felt exhaust and kept refitting and refitting----but no movement of tissue and swirling of CIG smoke when testing for leak (I'm definitely paranoid...lol). Tried to revamp the fuel at throttle settings (1550-6250) on PCV--from 5 all the way to 50. Still got some popping. Night time....both pipes are poppin blue flames at times....when decelerating. So....although my Fuel Moto map is WAYYYYYY better than the PCV website tunes....I guess I'll be calling up Jamie/Keith this Monday. I'm sort of stumped and don't have the experience to really TWEAK the power commander on my own---thanks for all the help.

J-rod
 
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Old 06-05-2011, 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickr01
The rear cylinder is behind the front cylinder. It gets less air, and typically runs hotter than the front. Certain Tuners address this to some extent. The fact remains, the rear cylinder even in a well tuned motor runs hotter. It is not at all uncommon to see the later Harley's rear pipe right where it exits the head glowing red at night.
The rear cylinder temperature difference is not as significant as most believe, normalized at steady state highway speeds the rear cylinder is only about 20 degrees hotter than the front, 30 degrees max turning 3k plus. When you come to a stop in traffic the front cylinder will heat up to match the rear in less than 2 min., at low speed city driving the cylinders will remain the same temp. For the majority of a Twin Cam's run time the front and rear cylinders are the same temp. Occasionally the rear cylinder is less than 10% hotter than the front.

Originally Posted by J-Rod75
I'm sort of stumped and don't have the experience to really TWEAK the power commander on my own.
Without AFR feedback, any attempts at tweaking would be a shot in the dark. Fuel Moto will get you fixed up. In the interim you could add 5-10% fuel in the idle-3k RPM, 2%-60% TPS cells, no way of knowing exactly what it will achieve, but it should enrich enough to cool you down a little and avoid any damage, until you can get another map.
 
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by J-Rod75
Some progress--no intake leak (WD40).....pulled exhaust and placed TWO SE gaskets in the place of the V&H---thought I felt exhaust and kept refitting and refitting----but no movement of tissue and swirling of CIG smoke when testing for leak (I'm definitely paranoid...lol). Tried to revamp the fuel at throttle settings (1550-6250) on PCV--from 5 all the way to 50. Still got some popping. Night time....both pipes are poppin blue flames at times....when decelerating. So....although my Fuel Moto map is WAYYYYYY better than the PCV website tunes....I guess I'll be calling up Jamie/Keith this Monday. I'm sort of stumped and don't have the experience to really TWEAK the power commander on my own---thanks for all the help.

J-rod
If you have an exhaust leak you will get a lot of abnormal burbling or popping in the exhaust on deceleration. Also, I have a Vance and Hines pipe with the similar head pipe crown as the Fuel Moto head pipe. I found the stock conical Harley exhaust gaskets to seal perfectly and much better every time rather than using the Screaming Eagles. You'll probably get a lot of different feed back on this, like "Those gaskets will crush too far into the head restricting flow etc." From my perspective, torque them right according to the manual and you will never have a leak with these gaskets and they will not crush too far to allow them to block flow...Do yourself a favor and replace the gaskets with the stockers. Torque properly in the sequence listed in the manual.
 

Last edited by Rickr01; 06-05-2011 at 10:32 AM.
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