Guys - installing an amp in my 2011 RGU. I know that it is "best" to draw current directly off the battery where possible but I am wondering - is there a good place under the fairing to draw power instead? Obviously the stock radio is drawing power from somewhere. Any ideas? Thoughts? Is there a specific wire I could splice into under there rather than having some single power wire running down to the battery? Is there a good reason to not do this? Anyone?

 

What kind of amp ?? Can't imagine that you'd find a heavy enough gauge wire for a powerful amp. Don't know what the amp mfg reccomends, but the heavier the wire, the better for the amp. I ran 4gauge, for overkills sake.

Is there a power wire coming out of the amp, or just a place to run your own wire ??

 

I just did my 11 Streetglide, the Amp required a 10 gage wire, there's no way I would want to tax the stock wiring like that, and then risk the warranty too.

The job wasn't that bad, I had to pull the tank, but that's pretty easy. After that, the rest is simple. I shrink wrapped the wire and ran through the stock wire loom under the tank. I used a low profile 30 Amp circut breaker just off the battery from Auto parts store. Run the ground with it, to the battery, (clean ground).
Don't use regular house wire, too brittle, if you can find MTW (machine tool wire) or someting simalar you are better off.

 

I'd go directly to battery. As others said the gas tank on newer models come off very easy with quick fuel disconnect they have. I've seen some guys run wires over top of tank under console to avoid pulling tank on older models but don't really like that myself. 10AWG should be plenty of any amp that's going to fit in of front fairing.

 

Maximum amplifier amperage draw = amp wattage (Max) / 12 (typical battery voltage). Example 200 watt amp / 12 volts = 16.66 amps. This would require 12 guage wire. There should not be an existing 12 guage wire or larger which could carry an additional 17 amps. Using existing could result in blown fuses, under performance of amp, or amp damage.

Where is the Spell Check Button?

 

I think it is worth the effort to run new wires, it will give you something to do with all that spare time you have.

If you are like me that means no free time at all.

 

Just follow the instructions. Be sure to put a fuse in the line to the battery.

 

+1 on this. The Hogtunes kit comes with this already done.

 

There are many good "remove the tank" threads here and that really is the biggest part of running the wire the right way. Run it in the existing wiring area and use some plastic wire loom (SP?) in areas where there could EVER be any friction. +1 on the spell check!!
Kris

 

It's not quite that simple. That formula works fine for an incandescent light bulb or if you are using the input wattage of the amp. The usual amp specs are for the output in RMS wattage. Most of the popular in fairing amps need at least a 10 guage feed wire if not an 8 guage.
Captsluggo