Ohlins #3-4
#23
05-22-2011, 05:36 AM
Tourer
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 251
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bikehe,
Both the lower adjustable eye, and the preload effects the bikes overall ride height. The adjustable lower eye changes the overall length of the shock regardless of where the preload is set. The preload on the coil spring adjusts the point in the overall travel where the shock compresses to when the weight of the bike and rider are resting on the shocks. With 3" of travel, 1/3 would be 1", so measure the shock unloaded, wheel off the gound, either eye to eye or the length of the spring. Then put the wheel back on the ground and sit on the bike and measure again, you want 1" less than your unloaded measurement. If it compresses more than 1" loaded, tighten the spring preload colar until you only get 1" less than your unloaded measurement. If it doesn't compress 1", loosen the preload collar until it does. Adjusting the preload to 1/3 travel compression under the combined weight of the bike and the rider, allows the shocks to perform to their full potential; they will droop up to 1" when the wheel encounters a hole or dip in the road, and they will travel up to 2" upward when you hit a raised bump in the road, all the while keeping the wheel in constant contact with the road under changing surface conditions. 1/3 preload is a guideline for street suspension set up, but it can be altered slightly to suit the individual rider's preference. It helps to have a second person to take measurements, and a front wheel chock makes it a lot easier too. The springs may not be exactly the same length on both shocks, if they are not don't try to make them the same; slight variations in lots and manufacturing process can cause 2 like springs to have differnt lengths at the same compression PSI value. After you set the preload, then you can play with the adjustable eye length. If you have a stock height front end, you will likely find that the taller overall adjustable eye setting will provide better handling. If your bike pushes hard to the outside of a turn, raise the rear or lower the front, and if it turns inward to quickly, lower the rear or raise the front. If you got your shocks from Howard, give him a call, he will coach you through the set up untill you are completely satisfied with it.
Both the lower adjustable eye, and the preload effects the bikes overall ride height. The adjustable lower eye changes the overall length of the shock regardless of where the preload is set. The preload on the coil spring adjusts the point in the overall travel where the shock compresses to when the weight of the bike and rider are resting on the shocks. With 3" of travel, 1/3 would be 1", so measure the shock unloaded, wheel off the gound, either eye to eye or the length of the spring. Then put the wheel back on the ground and sit on the bike and measure again, you want 1" less than your unloaded measurement. If it compresses more than 1" loaded, tighten the spring preload colar until you only get 1" less than your unloaded measurement. If it doesn't compress 1", loosen the preload collar until it does. Adjusting the preload to 1/3 travel compression under the combined weight of the bike and the rider, allows the shocks to perform to their full potential; they will droop up to 1" when the wheel encounters a hole or dip in the road, and they will travel up to 2" upward when you hit a raised bump in the road, all the while keeping the wheel in constant contact with the road under changing surface conditions. 1/3 preload is a guideline for street suspension set up, but it can be altered slightly to suit the individual rider's preference. It helps to have a second person to take measurements, and a front wheel chock makes it a lot easier too. The springs may not be exactly the same length on both shocks, if they are not don't try to make them the same; slight variations in lots and manufacturing process can cause 2 like springs to have differnt lengths at the same compression PSI value. After you set the preload, then you can play with the adjustable eye length. If you have a stock height front end, you will likely find that the taller overall adjustable eye setting will provide better handling. If your bike pushes hard to the outside of a turn, raise the rear or lower the front, and if it turns inward to quickly, lower the rear or raise the front. If you got your shocks from Howard, give him a call, he will coach you through the set up untill you are completely satisfied with it.
#25
05-22-2011, 07:32 AM
Road Captain
#26
05-22-2011, 08:21 AM
Road Captain
Adding longer shocks
I went from 12'' air to 13'' Ohlins 3-3s on a Roadglide. Seems that i don't want to use the 1/4-5/16 belt deflection adjustment stated in the 2010 SG or RG owners manual anymore pushing the swingarm in relationship to the countershaft pulley one inch lower. When i am off the bike my belt has closer to 1/2-5/8 belt deflection untill i sit on it and it drops down to the stock stock height and the belt is at the tighter adjustment listed for the SG and RG owners manual. Not a real big deal but if you lengthen your shocks and tighten your rear belt to the owners manual specs it is going to get awfull tight when its hot and you on it. Long travel motocross suspensions call for the chain to have 2-1/2'' of movement at its loosest point when off the suspension,looks like it would fall off the sprockets till you compress it. Even adding the extra 1'' shock on my 2010 that came with 12s you real can't see the rear sitting higher when i'm off the bike even though it is somewhere close to 3/4''. Free sag on the Ohlins is suppose to be bettween 5-15mm on the rear and front forks should be around 20-30mm this would be just the weight of your bike sitting on the suspension. Howards got a whole new front tripple tree and fork assembly for the touring line that should be nearing completion soon to fix the sacked out unrepairable sloppy,wiggly front end that is makes it almost a waste of time trying to tune the rear to perfection.
#27
05-22-2011, 12:55 PM
Count me in as a very happy Ohlins customer. I've had 2-3's installed for about 18 months and they have literally transformed the bike. I started out with those wonderful 12" SG shocks that would cram my butt into my Adam's Apple for every pothole I hit, and that torture lasted a few months until I bought some used 12½" Progressive 440's. These had about ½" more stroke than stock and were an improvement, but they had no rebound control at all and I wanted something better.
Enter Howard and Ohlins shocks. I went the cheap route with the 2-3's and that was a very good pick for my riding style. They have no adjustment other than preload, but as it turns out I don't need any. At 13¼" riding height is greater, of course, but I can still flat-foot the bike and it caused no problems other than the disappearance of that slammed look. No problem, as I can live without it, and BTW the stroke on these is 4-3/32", the longest of the Ohlins line (AFAIK). I weigh 170# and ride only solo, although I do load the bike down with a Tour Pak for trips. The Progressive shocks were an ordeal to find the sweet spot for preload, and it wasn't the same loaded as unloaded, so I had to adjust accordingly. The Ohlins are perfect for both scenarios and I have yet to change the preload. Furthermore, not once have I bottomed the rear suspension since the change, even riding on some of our not-too-well-maintained backroads. The ride? Well, you almost don't feel bumps at all, and the smoother ride has increased my ability to go longer distances without monkey butt or back ache. If I use my backrest I'm good for 500 miles or more without fatigue. Fellow riders often say, "Man, that road was rough!" I retort, "It was?"
Control is excellent and it is very nice to have some rebound control back. I have nothing negative to say about these shocks, and although the 2-3's may not be ideal for everyone, like two heavy folks riding with luggage, I can say for my needs they are perfect. I don't use that word often, but it fits. The only thing I would do different is order the orange springs. That way more people would see them and ask questions, which would give me more opportunity to brag on them.
Oh, and if you order these, mention HDForums and Howard may give you a discount.
Enter Howard and Ohlins shocks. I went the cheap route with the 2-3's and that was a very good pick for my riding style. They have no adjustment other than preload, but as it turns out I don't need any. At 13¼" riding height is greater, of course, but I can still flat-foot the bike and it caused no problems other than the disappearance of that slammed look. No problem, as I can live without it, and BTW the stroke on these is 4-3/32", the longest of the Ohlins line (AFAIK). I weigh 170# and ride only solo, although I do load the bike down with a Tour Pak for trips. The Progressive shocks were an ordeal to find the sweet spot for preload, and it wasn't the same loaded as unloaded, so I had to adjust accordingly. The Ohlins are perfect for both scenarios and I have yet to change the preload. Furthermore, not once have I bottomed the rear suspension since the change, even riding on some of our not-too-well-maintained backroads. The ride? Well, you almost don't feel bumps at all, and the smoother ride has increased my ability to go longer distances without monkey butt or back ache. If I use my backrest I'm good for 500 miles or more without fatigue. Fellow riders often say, "Man, that road was rough!" I retort, "It was?"
Control is excellent and it is very nice to have some rebound control back. I have nothing negative to say about these shocks, and although the 2-3's may not be ideal for everyone, like two heavy folks riding with luggage, I can say for my needs they are perfect. I don't use that word often, but it fits. The only thing I would do different is order the orange springs. That way more people would see them and ask questions, which would give me more opportunity to brag on them.
Oh, and if you order these, mention HDForums and Howard may give you a discount.
Last edited by iclick; 05-22-2011 at 01:07 PM.
#28
05-22-2011, 01:22 PM
Road Captain
2-3s vs. 3-3s
Count me in as a very happy Ohlins customer. I've had 2-3's installed for about 18 months and they have literally transformed the bike. I started out with those wonderful 12" SG shocks that would cram my butt into my Adam's Apple for every pothole I hit, and that torture lasted a few months until I bought some used 12½" Progressive 440's. These had about ½" more stroke than stock and were an improvement, but they had no rebound control at all and I wanted something better.
Enter Howard and Ohlins shocks. I went the cheap route with the 2-3's and that was a very good pick for my riding style. They have no adjustment other than preload, but as it turns out I don't need any. At 13¼" riding height is greater, of course, but I can still flat-foot the bike and it caused no problems other than the disappearance of that slammed look. No problem, as I can live without it, and BTW the stroke on these is 4-3/32", the longest of the Ohlins line (AFAIK). I weigh 170# and ride only solo, although I do load the bike down with a Tour Pak for trips. The Progressive shocks were an ordeal to find the sweet spot for preload, and it wasn't the same loaded as unloaded, so I had to adjust accordingly. The Ohlins are perfect for both scenarios and I have yet to change the preload. Furthermore, not once have I bottomed the rear suspension since the change, even riding on some of our not-too-well-maintained backroads. The ride? Well, you almost don't feel bumps at all, and the smoother ride has increased my ability to go longer distances without monkey butt or back ache. If I use my backrest I'm good for 500 miles or more without fatigue. Fellow riders often say, "Man, that road was rough!" I retort, "It was?"
Control is excellent and it is very nice to have some rebound control back. I have nothing negative to say about these shocks, and although the 2-3's may not be ideal for everyone, like two heavy folks riding with luggage, I can say for my needs they are perfect. I don't use that word often, but it fits. The only thing I would do different is order the orange springs. That way more people would see them and ask questions, which would give me more opportunity to brag on them.
Oh, and if you order these, mention HDForums and Howard may give you a discount.
Enter Howard and Ohlins shocks. I went the cheap route with the 2-3's and that was a very good pick for my riding style. They have no adjustment other than preload, but as it turns out I don't need any. At 13¼" riding height is greater, of course, but I can still flat-foot the bike and it caused no problems other than the disappearance of that slammed look. No problem, as I can live without it, and BTW the stroke on these is 4-3/32", the longest of the Ohlins line (AFAIK). I weigh 170# and ride only solo, although I do load the bike down with a Tour Pak for trips. The Progressive shocks were an ordeal to find the sweet spot for preload, and it wasn't the same loaded as unloaded, so I had to adjust accordingly. The Ohlins are perfect for both scenarios and I have yet to change the preload. Furthermore, not once have I bottomed the rear suspension since the change, even riding on some of our not-too-well-maintained backroads. The ride? Well, you almost don't feel bumps at all, and the smoother ride has increased my ability to go longer distances without monkey butt or back ache. If I use my backrest I'm good for 500 miles or more without fatigue. Fellow riders often say, "Man, that road was rough!" I retort, "It was?"
Control is excellent and it is very nice to have some rebound control back. I have nothing negative to say about these shocks, and although the 2-3's may not be ideal for everyone, like two heavy folks riding with luggage, I can say for my needs they are perfect. I don't use that word often, but it fits. The only thing I would do different is order the orange springs. That way more people would see them and ask questions, which would give me more opportunity to brag on them.
Oh, and if you order these, mention HDForums and Howard may give you a discount.
#30
05-22-2011, 06:22 PM
The 3-2s only have 5/8" more travel than stock. You will be spending a bunch of money anyway, you might as well get the extra travel with the 3-3s. If you are looking at ride height, my SG doesnt ride any higher when I'm on it, maybe 3/8" taller just sitting there with no rider. An alternate opinion is yes you will be missing a lot without the damping adjustment sweep valve, if you don't mind exerting the slightest amount of effort to tune your shocks to perfection.