This is the best explanation I've read on the subject. Thank you, I finally can see clearly what's happening when doing both adjustments.

 

i just replaced my inner primary, in doing so i had to re-adjust my clutch, followed the sevice manual...but wasnt happy with the catch point, catching to far out, so i backed off the locking nut at the adjuster(infront of the frame) turned the adjuster up toward handle bars and PRESTO..perfect!
p.s......moved udjuster up @ 1/2 or so...catches @ inch or so, just the way i like it

 

I think I get why the bike needs so much clearance when cold, as the cases are aluminum and contract more than the steel(?) pushrod and other clutch components that make up the distance between one side of the bike and the other. An example is on all aluminum V8 race motors with 10 inch steel pushrods. Cold to hot you have to allow .020 for block/head growth.
When cold, 1/2 to 1 turn isn't too bad for where the clutch releases, but as the cases get really warm it increases a lot. On my 08 RK I set it with only 1/4 turn when the motor is thoroughly cold, say 40 degrees. or the lowest I would normally ride in to make absolute sure I have enough clearance for the warmup period. I then could set the cable adjuster for where I want clutch release. Y.ou must set the cable so you still have enough clearance in the cable/ lever setting , or you will reduce the amount of clearance in the clutch itself through too tight of a cable adjuster. One effects the other, and you can only go so far before you will not have enough release to leave that 1/4 turn you put in at the left side of the clutch.

 

This was an HD mechanic for 25 years turned indy that told me this. I've been doing it this way on my two bikes with great success so how can it be plain wrong?????

I went out to the garage just now and pulled the derby cover. Adjusted the clutch by the service manual and then checked it the way the HD mechanic suggested. both were exactly at the same point. I guess the best thing for people who can't think outside the box to do is go by the manual. JMO

 

Are the clutch adjustments at the clutch pack that necessary? Duck.......

If I run the screw out a half a turn and ride it for 5,000 miles and then it only goes back 1/2 a turn, then I'd say the clutch didn't need to be adjusted.....

The cable on the other seems to be another story. It seems to stretch quite a bit over that 5,000 mile mark and does seem awkward when corrected during the adjustment.

 

That makes a lot of sense to me.

 

just done mine and it works good, not hard to do at all. it takes longer to remove access cover