Front Brake Shake
#13
06-08-2011, 03:52 PM
I'll try to explain.
There are three types of brake rotors: solid, semifloating, and full floating. With a solid rotor a single piece of metal is bolted to the wheel. With semifloating like Harleys, you have a center piece and a separate outer part that the brake pads touch and the two are connected by a bunch of round "buttons" that allow a small amount of movement between the two. With full floating, the braking surface is relatively loose so that it can move around to hopefully become in perfect alignment with the pads. Full floating rotors are less likely to pulse than solid or semifloating rotors. Most race bikes have full floating rotors. Full floating rotors make noise at low speeds as the parts move around, since they're kind of loose. Semifloating rotors don't make the noise.
But all 3 kinds can get warped if they get too hot.
There are three types of brake rotors: solid, semifloating, and full floating. With a solid rotor a single piece of metal is bolted to the wheel. With semifloating like Harleys, you have a center piece and a separate outer part that the brake pads touch and the two are connected by a bunch of round "buttons" that allow a small amount of movement between the two. With full floating, the braking surface is relatively loose so that it can move around to hopefully become in perfect alignment with the pads. Full floating rotors are less likely to pulse than solid or semifloating rotors. Most race bikes have full floating rotors. Full floating rotors make noise at low speeds as the parts move around, since they're kind of loose. Semifloating rotors don't make the noise.
But all 3 kinds can get warped if they get too hot.
Last edited by isac; 06-08-2011 at 03:56 PM.
#15
06-08-2011, 05:00 PM
#16
06-11-2011, 01:00 PM
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Check out www.lyndallracingbrakes.com sounds like you have warped rotors or you need to clean up your calipers. See the service/tech page at that site to clean your calipers.
#17
11-03-2011, 10:26 AM
I had the same problem with my '07 Ultra. Checked runout with a good dial indicator & had .028" runout on the right & .025" on the left. Marked the deviations from average with a sharpie & used a 2# dead blow hammer to "massage" the high spots from the outside and a 24" wooden dowel & the hammer for the low spots on the inside. It didn't take much of a blow at all to move the rotor. With trial & error I was able to get both rotors to within .002", which is less than crankshaft runout. End of problem.
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