Keep in mind your bike is still fairly new. The rubber bushings have not had a chance to wear out yet. The True Track will help prevent them from wearing out by limiting the amount of movement they will experience.

 

Just coming off a Wide Glide & onto the SG, I have not noticed any wobble in the turns.....is this what you guys are talking about ?

I do notice @ hiway speeds I get almost a "loose" feeling, like a unsettled feeling in the rear, like its moving around a lil....could be the air flow, off of the trucks ? Never felt the on the Dyna, it was glued to the pavement.

Only having logged 2000 miles on her, still learning the personality of the bike. Any help appreciated, thanks.

 

Alot of people will tell you it helps, it helps soooo much. Truth is, it will improve it some but it aint a miracle. This is not to knock the guys who have great results with it (bryanTTM etc)

But heres an opinion....
Honestly I believe that the thing is over priced and is sold primarily on the fears of new riders. Cause any experianced rider will tell you that all bikes will wobble or go into a tank slapper at speed. And usually that is an indication that you need to slow your butt down under those conditions, not have your bike looked at or "fixed". Furthermore and not to knock a possibly good product, the website has a picture of a guy going down (fear) on a bagger at what looks like Deals Gap, which looks like they took the picture right off the killboy.com website. Having been there about 200 times I can tell you the guy went down because he was riding outside of the envelope and not because of rear steer or wobbles. Because he could only be going 30-40 MPH in the first place and thats awefully slow to induce a tank slapper. The accident was most likely due to him carrying too much speed into the corner or failure to negotiate the corner, rather than being caused by something being loose in the rear.

So basically I'm saying, ride where the conditions and your skill level permit, don't try to save yourself with a 400 dollar do-dad. And if your bike has a bad wobble at high speed one of two things are happening:
1. your riding outside of your skill level. or
2. your rig needs bushings or you have equipment failure of some type.

Both of which are within your control.

Off the soap box now...

lp

 

That was exactly my first impression when I went up on the true-track website. In fact, I think they're taking more than just a little (ahem) "creative liberty" with that picture by leaving out the shot where the rider was waving to the camera just prior to the get-off.

 

Is there 2 different problems. I have heard of a tank slapper problem and I have heard of a rear wobble or rear walkout problem. I mean I can see tank slapper being caused by some problem in the front end, like loose or worn steering neck bearings, lose or worn axel bearings or even wore front tube bushings, but I can't see this problem being caused by something in the rear swingarm design or system.
And the rear wobble problem could be caused by some problem like looseness or wore out swingarm bushings, or loose or wore out rear axel bearings, but I can't see this problem comeing from anything in the front end. Also there have been a few rear swingarms haveing a crack in them so thins is something to keep check of.
So I think there are 2 problems that are actually being talked about. But my first question would be the service preformed or NOT performed on the bikes in question. And tire condition and tire air presures and suspension set up could all have big impacts on handling.
And a big FYI is the touring bikes with the rubber bushings in the swingarms to stop vibrations are road crusers, not throw em fast in the hard corners type bikes. And I think the problems occuring in a very small ammount of bikes is from wear, low maintence and over rideing. I mey be wrong but I've got alot of miles on a couple Electras and ride with alot of them and have never seen these problems. but I have seen alot of over rideing their machines and lack of maintence especially in the 10,000 and 20,000 mile maintence works where bushing and bearings are checked, lubed and adjusted.
And I have not heard of any bikes with these problems ever being torn down and check out all the parts to see if there is any signs of parts problems. And if it is wore parts causeing these problems would reguar maintence cured the probems?

 

A note too. Years or decades ago I should say, I had a sportster that had bias type polester corded tires. I had preaty much blasted that poor ol bike alot and hit several curbs and huge potholes, anyways I had to change the rear tire cause it had some broken cords in it and would roll or actually give or squat down when the tire area with the broken cords came arround to the bottom.
So I'm thinking some of this walkout or wobble rear end is tire related.

 

I find bikes, like other things, have personalities of there own. What works for one may or may not work on another. The rear powertrain mounts are on the outboard end of the swingarm shaft pivot rod. The complience may effect the handling under some circumstances. My bagger felt a little odd when riding two up so I installed a Ride-STR8. It does the same thing the True Track does. The improvement was noticable. If you don't notice a problem I would forget it. If you do feel there is a problem Try adding the extra torque arm.

 

Got my bike in the shop right now for a tracking problem. I'll let ay know how it goes. Probably on Monday