If they adjusted your clutch it could be slipping but that should be pretty obvious. Can't see needing to replace the clutch at 30K unless you are some kind of burnout king.

 

Perhaps the clutch is just way out of adjustment and slipping. That could account for the loss in gas mileage.

By the way, are you calculating actual miles per gallon or just going by how many miles you can go before the reserve light comes on? Perhaps the gas gauge is off and indicating that the gas level is lower than it actually is.

 

No burn outs and I'm hoping that it is just out of adjustment. 30k seemed to be a short life for a clutch to me too. I am going from a full tank until the reserve light come on, as I did before the service. I don't want to be stranded on the side of the road. I guess I could by a Reda can as back up.

 

I had to have the clutch replaced on my Ultra at 460 miles and have still never done one burnout. I was going down the road on my brand new motorcycle when suddenly it would not go into gear. The tech that fixed it said the clutch was either never adjusted properly when it left the factory or that the dealership that installed my color matched inner fairing ( had this done before picking up the bike) never adjusted it after installing it. The clutch was the one thing on the bike not covered by the warranty but the tech at Mountain Creek Harley called Harley and they "goodwill" replaced the clutch due to the low mileage.

 

It doesn't matter when you fill the tank. As loon as you use the mileage to fuel that you put in. I have only seen around 40 MPG but that is what I have found to be normal. I would love to get 50+ but I know that will never happen.

 

I'm hoping that it's just out of adjustment. The stock adjustment if I recall correctly is up to a half turn after seated, but the AIM Variable Pressure Clutch is a three-quarter turn up to a full turn. If a mechanic doesn't know this, I would expect him/her to step up and ask. Although, it does provide a reason to make more upgrades.

 

That's the wrong way to measure fuel mileage. Idiot lights are notoriously inaccurate.

You need to be consistent EVERY TIME you fill up and try to fill it to the same level EVERY TIME, preferably with the same brand of gas and as close to the top as possible for greater accuracy, then record the actual mileage from the odometer on to the receipt. Subtract the last fill-up mileage from this new odometer reading and divide by the actual number of gallons used as noted on the receipt (miles ridden/gallons used). This will give you a truer sense of gas mileage, especially after many, many fill-ups. In time, you'll be able to tell when you were doing mostly local riding or highway miles.

Perfect practice makes perfect.

 

How much ethanol is in the gas your buying?

 

I have been using the same method (full tank to reserve light) every other week for a year, then comparing it to the trip meter. For over a year prior to the service, things were good as I stated. Since then, almost a month later, the same method produces lower miles per tank. Shouldn't the same methodology generate the same results? If the clutch is the problem by slipping, then it would explain the excessive consumption (i.e. having to use more fuel to generate momentum).

 

Not if you're relying on idiot lights. Why can't you do it the right way? It's not hard at all.