2010 Street Glide with Stage 1 air filter, Stage one up-load and Screaming Eagle Night Stick Super-trap muffler with one extra disk added (2 into 1 system) Bike runs great but on higher RPM deceleration it pops in muffler. Note: I have check to make sure that the exhaust pipe to heads are torqued. IS this normal?

 

Not sure about normal but that is what mine used to to with that set up. I went with cams and V&H duals and power vision tuner.

 

more then likely its either a exhaust leak or a tuning issue i would check your connections and if all is well i would get it tuned

 

some popping on decel is considered normal. Some mufflers just mask it better then others.

 

Every bike I have owned with STOCK CAMS has popped...change the cams and it will stop.

I have the 2010 street glide 2:1, cat has been removed with the night stick on my 2002 FLHRI.. It popped and was irritating until I slipped a set of SE203's in it last week. Once again all the popping stopped and have it running better than ever. Added a power commander and modded the muffler with some 1/4-20 nuts at the disk ends. The Nighthawk muffler is nothing more than a fancy looking 2 1/4 pipe with the end blocked off, because of the plate gaps it allows the exhaust to exit and quiets down the sound. I opened it up to flow better and have more tone but left the cap on the very end to cut down on the high frequency content of the exhaust note and offer back pressure. Works incredibly well with this set up and sounds excellent. I have had many compliments from people already.
Good luck.. cams are the solution, every time I have had this exact issue

 

it is also a sign of it running a little to lean

 

thank you for the info. can you go into more detail on the muffler end? You said that you opened it up but left the cap on the end.

 

Take the 6 screws out of the end of the muffler assy. (be careful the screws cross thread easy and are not of very good quality metal, I broke one reinstalling) There are 3 parts, ring, end cap plate, and dissipation plates. Remove the dissipation plates, leave the end cap and put a ¼-20 nut over each screw, replace the plates against the nuts, and reinstall. I removed the entire muffler pipe from the muffler body by taking the two ¼-20 security screws out of the bottom of the body. The muffler pipe with the plates will all come out. I used black header paint on the assembly before putting it back in. My buddy added a 2-1/4” baffle from a Samson to the pipe by adding a nut and bolt to retain the baffle. It is a little mellower than mine is and did add a little more back pressure at mid range riding so I might do the same to mine before dyno-tuning the setup with the new cam. It now sounds like a Harley, but doesn’t rock people for blocks when you whack it. Has a nice mellow tone while cruising around and still has backpressure for torque with the restricted end cap. Not a bad muffler if you can get past the discoloration at the tip because of the vertical dissipation of hot gasses. I bought mine for 60 bucks and have been loving it ever since.
Hope that helps
-S

 

While lean can make popping....sometimes, its more the stock cams with the FI bikes and the overlap in the valve timing.
I added the cam and it was over lean before I added the power commander...still didnt pop. No pop and added torque and HP how can you go wrong?

 

You either have a leak or it needs to be tuned.