No it does not, the SE Stage II 103 kit is not the 103 that comes from the factory.

 

The SE255 cam is your short answer. I believe this is the cam used in the CVO 110" engines. It will work very well, idle nicely and make good low end torque. It's a "notch above stock" for what you have and a bolt in replacement to what you have (you'll still need to tune the bike)

As others have said the TW-555 would also be a great choice for maximizing your low end power, but you would have a slightly rougher idle and most probably not be EPA compliant as I don't think Woods has done any EPA certificaiton with their cams or tuning to support the cam install. FYI..this is the cam going in my bike this winter. On the Fuel Moto website they have a video and sound of this cam idleing and some low revs so you can hear it.

My brother has the SE204 in his 96" dyna with V&H short shots. It's a good down low torque cam, but it has some chomp at idle. Personally, I think it sounds awsome, but it doesn't idle like stock, if that is what you are after. It does ride nice and make lots of low end power, but from what I can tell is all done by 4500 - 5000 rpm. I have no idea on EPA compliance with this cam; however your HD dealer may have some insight.

You might want to check out the Fuel Moto website as they have a nice dyno graph comparision of the TW-555 vs. SE255. Dyno numbers aren't everything but do give an indication of where the cams make power and the FM webiste show this back to back on the same bike, same day.

With any cam, you'll pick up some increase in sound. More air/fuel in = bigger bang in the combustion chanber. Bigger bang = more sound. It's not a huge difference, but will be noticable.

Good luck and let us know what you choose.

 

I have the Woods TW6-6 and love them but the TW555 came out after I got the TW6-6 would have gotten the TW-555 if they would have been out!

 

I really can not speak to the other cams but I have the SE255s and I really like them. You can "feel" the cam right off of the bottom and 6th gear is now usable. I ride in the western North Carolina mountains and determined that power off of the bottom was important. I shift at 3,500 and I never feel them falling off...and it will keep pulling after shifting.

96 inch turned 103 with SE Stage II kit.

 

Looking at your list of bikes, I had to smile, 84 KTM 250 mxc, ahhhhh the bike that put me into retirement. What an ill handling motocross bike, horrible no damping undersprung flexy forks and shocks that were super stiff and leaked in the back of the truck on the way home from the dealership. Sorry if you love yours, no disrespect intended.

 

Stage one with no cam.... don't open a brand new engine...keep her stock, you won't regret it!!

 

If you DIY the labor is free and the trade-off is the extra 2-3 hours to "go through the rockers" vs. the cost of adjustables. I agree with Razorsedge that adjustables are not likely to come loose if locked properly, and riding with them (Rivera Taperlite) for >100k miles on my 1996 Evo I only had one loosen, and that was likely because I didn't lock it properly.

My choice for the '07 was to save the $150 on adjustables and suffer the agony of pulling the rocker assembly apart. It is a minor hassle, but once done it is done and you've saved a good chunk of money. If you're frugal like me you'll sacrifice the time, IMO. OTOH if you have someone else do the job the cost may be a wash. The virtues of adjustables is that if you want to swap cams again or replace the lifters, the job will be much easier and quicker. All that said, I would do the same thing again and reuse the stockers, as I won't be doing another cam job on this bike and I'm hoping the lifters will remain good for the duration.