Amp wiring problem - voltage drop
#1
Amp wiring problem - voltage drop
'08 SG, other than cruise, siren, no other electrical add ons. JBL 2 channel amp (2ohm). In short, worked fine for a few months, took the bags off to wash the bike (quick disconnects on all wires except positive/ground). Put it all back after, power to the amp but lights wouldn't come on (checked wiring etc., nothing amiss). Called JBL and spoke to some guy in India (where else?) who refered me to their marine division in the U.S. who after hearing prob send send it in for exchange. Got the new amp last nite, put it in, same prob! No lights in amp. Re checked all wiring, ran a new grnd direct to batt.
I don't have a volt meter and was using a test light; today I used a battery load tester with some alligator clips and what I get is ignition off or on, 13 volts; there is a remote on/off switch that I've wired to the acc switch; switch off, no volts, switch on 14 BUT the positive terminal voltage drops to the 6-9 volt range once the switch is on.... WTF? Obviously I'm not an electrical engineer. I do have an inline fuse (which hasn't blown) so I'm at a loss as to.....? I'm at the end of my wee bit of elec knowledge so any help is much appreciated
I don't have a volt meter and was using a test light; today I used a battery load tester with some alligator clips and what I get is ignition off or on, 13 volts; there is a remote on/off switch that I've wired to the acc switch; switch off, no volts, switch on 14 BUT the positive terminal voltage drops to the 6-9 volt range once the switch is on.... WTF? Obviously I'm not an electrical engineer. I do have an inline fuse (which hasn't blown) so I'm at a loss as to.....? I'm at the end of my wee bit of elec knowledge so any help is much appreciated
Last edited by cmcsns; 04-13-2011 at 07:04 PM. Reason: spelling
#3
I'm not an electrical engineer either.
Are you saying that the amp won't turn "on" when you say there are no lights at the amp? If so, will the amp turn on if the remote wire you currently have wired to the ACC switch is connected to the battery? It'd be a pretty simple test to remove the remote wire from the ACC connector under the seat and temporarily touch the + terminal on the battery to see if the amp lights turn on. Whereever the remote wire is presently connected, try connecting the remote wire directly to the + terminal. That way you'll know if the problem is with the ACC circuit or not.
Also, it may be that the amp requires an input signal in addition to the remote wire to turn "on." I had an Arc amp that apparently required an input signal from the HK head unit, and the HK head unit wouldn't send it because there was so little resistance in the circuit to the Arc 125.2 amp which the HK "saw" as an open condition. Arc sent me a "load simulator" (basically a very small resistor) attached to new speaker level inputs to address this condition.
Hope you get it sorted out.
Carl
Are you saying that the amp won't turn "on" when you say there are no lights at the amp? If so, will the amp turn on if the remote wire you currently have wired to the ACC switch is connected to the battery? It'd be a pretty simple test to remove the remote wire from the ACC connector under the seat and temporarily touch the + terminal on the battery to see if the amp lights turn on. Whereever the remote wire is presently connected, try connecting the remote wire directly to the + terminal. That way you'll know if the problem is with the ACC circuit or not.
Also, it may be that the amp requires an input signal in addition to the remote wire to turn "on." I had an Arc amp that apparently required an input signal from the HK head unit, and the HK head unit wouldn't send it because there was so little resistance in the circuit to the Arc 125.2 amp which the HK "saw" as an open condition. Arc sent me a "load simulator" (basically a very small resistor) attached to new speaker level inputs to address this condition.
Hope you get it sorted out.
Carl
#4
#5
When I turn on the remote switch the power at the amp for the remote connection is correct (14 volts) but it drops the power on the + connection (at amp) to approx 9v. After speaking with a tech guy from JBL he states that the voltage drop at the + terminal is the reason the amp is not coming on. What's got me puzzled is that prior to this the amp worked fine for about 5 mos wired as is. If I turn the remote switch off, the + voltage goes back to 14v. Could the inline fuse or wire guage be affecting the voltage? I guess I could connect the remote to the power supply for the HK unit and run it that way, but as I say, it was working fine prior to this. I guess I need to find out where the missing 5v goes. Maybe I should get Columbo on the case
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