It sounds like your using the adjustable pushrods if so those things are too fat for the tubes if you take one out and insert it into the tube you will see how much clearance you have any movement for or aft it will come into contact with the tube, This is one of the reasons I stuck with my stock pushrods.

 

No, I'm using a perfect fit only because I had them and thought they might be a little tighter tolerance than the stock rods.

 

Oh ok, I have never seen those other than in the book, I tell ya it would be worth grabbing a set of stock pushrods when you put her back together they are light and strong.

 

I still have my stockers, the perfect fits are actually lighter and stronger. I wouldn't buy them to replace the stock pushrods though.

 

Just finished a 2 winter engine build on my bike. did the 103 with 255 cams last winter with stock pushrods. top end was noisier than stock was , but I knew it would be louder from posts in here about 255 cams. this winter I added mva heads with auto decompression releases, no more pushing the dam buttons down to start it. i had to change the pistons to 10:5-1 domes to match the heads, and vh power duels and monster ovals .its pretty well the stage 4 kit without the 260 cams and 58 mm throttle body.
I set the pushrods to 2.5 turns as the harley spec sheet said, and man is this thing is even noisier than the stock rods and heads were. so after looking at posts here i people are going to .130-.150 on pushrods turns after the preload. i mailed fuel moto about woods lifters and will probably will get a set later once Im caught up from the 3 grand worth of parts I added.
so after reading stuff in here and jamie of fuel moto mailing me back that they set lifters at.130 which by the way using se tapered pushrods is 3.1 turns. the noise is much better. while I was resetting the rods the unspeakable happened while locking the nuts, it felt like the wench turned on the nut so I try to pull the wench off and I hear what sounded like a nut hitting the pipes and I see half a nut bouncing across the floor. the other half was laying on the lifter. so I get a magnet and the 2nd jumps onto the magnet no problem. I go to the store to get what I figure is a 5/16-24 nut since the wrench size is 1/2 and the new nut dont go over the pushrod stem. They are 3/8-24 fine , the new nut is longer by about 2 threads and has thicker walls. I knocked the corners off for a bit more clearance in rocker tubes which seem to have pretty good clearance anyway.
So since 1 nut split I decide I dont want the se nuts on the other 3 rods so I pull everything apart and find one other nut cracked on one side, good thing that nut actually split in half on me or I would never had known there was another one cracked.
while I had it apart I slid just a pushrod up into the rocker arm socket and try to pull and push it along the rocker arm mounting shaft. wow the front intake moves quite abit, bet its over .020, the other 3 didnt feel as bad and when the motor was running at 2.5 turns on rods it seemed louder on the left side of the bike, bet its the rocker arm slamming into the base plate every time the pushrod pushed up on the arm.
after setting the lifters at 3 turns on the rods and using new nuts longer and a bit thicker than the se crap ones my lifters sound about the way they did when I had the stock heads and pushrods. I still think the remaining noise is the rocker arm end play.
Think ill order the woods lifters and get shim kits to get rid of the end play on the rockers.
glad I saw this post and another post about cracked push rod nuts
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nv_glekpmTM