Not today, but yesterday, took mine out for about 100 miles to break in my new tires and rear brake pads. Man what a difference in handling the new tires made. Those old tires, especially the rear, had pretty much flattened and with the new, it rills into turns so much easier. Wow.
As our old Pratt-Whitney tech rep used to say when we asked him why the designers and engineers made some areas of the jet engine impossible to work on. "It's the nature of the beast." Of course those words didn't keep us from cursing up a storm on the flight line lol. It's the same when wrenching on our bikes. Some times we win and sometimes the bike wins.
YEPPERS! Started on the J57s (KC135s) but quickly moved over to the GE F101s (B1Bs) if my memory is correct and them numbers are right, Lol.
Anyway the 135s were pretty much a nightmare, whereas with the B1 Bomber engines any kid that could fix his own bicycle could change any part other than maybe the fuel control and that was easy enough.
Dyess AFB 1985 - 1989 Jet Engine Mech as well.
The shift lever at the tranny finally let go I have been babying it along for about a year, purchased the "Truss type" lever from Baker and its a nice piece, had to remove the inner primary to get the old one off.
The shift lever at the tranny finally let go I have been babying it along for about a year, purchased the "Truss type" lever from Baker and its a nice piece, had to remove the inner primary to get the old one off.
will post up pics when everything is buttoned up.
Boy what a PITA that has to be. I don't see a difference in design, other than the Baker looks beefier. Not sure what the truss part is.
Yeah, the 88(year) has the tapered shaft, and had to get a gear puller to remove the clutch hub, other than that it was pretty straight forward, it needed removing as all the seals on the inner primary were leaking and it was pretty damn grimy back there, I think the "truss" is that rib going up the lever, probably adds some rigidity to the unit, also the splines are broached, from their web page "Broached splines that won’t strip out" .
Last edited by Ghetto blaster; 11-06-2023 at 06:37 PM.
I was considering that one at first, but man them things is expensive, they do have a video up on how you can remove the stock lever without removing the inner primary, requires a drummel tool with a flexible extension.
I was considering that one at first, but man them things is expensive, they do have a video up on how you can remove the stock lever without removing the inner primary, requires a drummel tool with a flexible extension.
Definitely not cheap but it saved me when I installed it on my 04 Road King Classic 7 years ago and it's still going strong. I will say removing the old lever was a huge PITA on the 5 speed but I did get it off without removing the primary. I recently installed one on a buddy's 2010 Dyna Street Bob and it was much easier on the 6 speed. I hope your new lever does the trick and gets you back up and running.
Yanking the inner primary off is no big deal. As long as you have the tools to do it.
That's where the better lever comes into play. I watch a buddy of mine swap to the better lever in his driveway while people were waiting on him. Works pretty well.
11-05-2023, 07:46 AM
