Those formed funnels work great. Also learned a trick on my funnels instructions. Take a nail and pop a hole at 12 o’clock on the face of the filter. Rotate 180 degrees and let oil trickle out for awhile to prevent a gush. Never thought to do that but it works super.
If you place the funnel just under the filter head and poke a hole at 6 o'clock than at 12 o'clock you don't even have to rotate the filter at all and you won't have to break the seal until the filter is drained completely. I installed the DK Custom Products oil filter relocation kit and don't have to bother with poking holes anymore.
Confirmed my oil filter cap wrench from my old Beemer fits the Harley oil filter just fine. Now I have to buy the plastic tray for under the filter for changing the oil. Sadly, the bike is sleeping in the garage for the winter.
I use the PC Racing Flo oil filter. Superior filtration and reusable for life. Just replace the o rings. You just use a socket to remove. Very convenient!
Saturday I attempted to rebuild my rear brake rotor. Replacing the carrier and buttons. Looks like the buttons Beringer sent are not correct. You can see in the picture of the old and new button side by side the space where the snap ring sits is off. It's off by .035 I'm waiting on a reply to my email. Hopefully we get it figured out.
Last edited by Dynawobble; 12-19-2022 at 04:28 PM.
If you place the funnel just under the filter head and poke a hole at 6 o'clock than at 12 o'clock you don't even have to rotate the filter at all and you won't have to break the seal until the filter is drained completely. I installed the DK Custom Products oil filter relocation kit and don't have to bother with poking holes anymore.
Nice I’ll do that next time. Bringing the filter forward (from under the transmission) cleaned up the super Highway of oil lines back there, but created the need to control spillage on that front mount. With y’all’s good suggestions we got ‘er done.
Nice I’ll do that next time. Bringing the filter forward (from under the transmission) cleaned up the super Highway of oil lines back there, but created the need to control spillage on that front mount. With y’all’s good suggestions we got ‘er done.
If your not in a hurry to get back on the road, drain your oil while hot but wait til the next day to replace the filter. Most of the oil will have drained out making less a mess.
I just picked up the bike from the dealership where they replaced the tri-bar light/module. I have a '21 Street Glide Standard. The reason I took it in, was that the light that shines on the license plate wasn't working. Silly me, I thought it was just a light bulb, but Harley's (as we know) are a bit over engineered. Turned out that the license plate light is controlled by the tri-bar module which had to be replaced. The parts guys at my dealership said they could replace the standard tri-bar with the new version that does run & brake, and I'd only have to pay the delta $ increase. The labor time was covered by the warranty. Done. Cost ~$50.
Those formed funnels work great. Also learned a trick on my funnels instructions. Take a nail and pop a hole at 12 o’clock on the face of the filter. Rotate 180 degrees and let oil trickle out for awhile to prevent a gush. Never thought to do that but it works super.
I’ve learned another trick here on the forum: remove filter while bike is on kickstand; in my last two changes not a drop of oil on the floor.
12-19-2022, 01:44 PM
