technically there isn’t an option for the rear brake as a ‘parking brake’; the rear master cylinder isn’t in a terribly convenient location. It would only really be any good for holding the tire still while doing maintenance It would be the exact same one for the front brake, I measured with the one I ordered, and it fits (on mine). As far as affecting ABS, I’m no scientist or engineer, but if the “brake” is not applied, it is just a normal banjo bolt. It works by preventing brake line pressure from returning to the master cylinder. As soon as you give the brake lever a squeeze, it releases. It’s friggin genius. I have no idea why there aren’t more of these things out there. Also, If you email them they respond very quickly. That’s a great sign of customer service and quality in my book.

 

Just don't park on inclines or if you do have your bike facing uphill. Save yourself $200.00
Just joking it seems like a rational idea but I'll pass. Never had an issue with my bikes in almost 40 years of riding. I could buy more chrome for the kind of money they are asking for a brake banjo bolt. This makes me wonder what do guys do with their bikes living in San Francisco! That really must be a PITA!

 

I think I would use it. Many of the crowned roads where I live, have me leaving it in gear, and my understanding is leaving it in gear is hard on the dtarter.

 

I changed the engine oil/filter. Then started to remove the derby cover to change the primary fluid, top torx bolt was being stubborn so I got small impact on it. Broke the T27 bit, and since I was pushing in on the driver, the spinning sharp broken bit proceeded to put a nice scratch in the outer primary cover about 4" long. Arghh. Put all the bolts back in, and left it for another day.

 

Now that just sucks all the way around. Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Have a beer and get ready for the Field of Dreams Game tonight at 7est. Yanks and Whitesox!

 

Turn it into opportunity, buy a custom derby cover. Win win

 

Just in case you don't know:
When you get the primary fluid changed and are reinstalling the screws, Derby cover screws should be torqued to 84-108 INCH-lbs.
Then hopefully you don't repeat this situation in the future.
FYI I've had those screws break in the past and they're not overly difficult to remove with the cover off.
Good luck.

ps I wont be home until tomorrow night (Friday 8/13) but I have at least one, if not two, extra derby covers around I could part with.

 

Wow somebody cranked that on way way too tight. Before you try again put some heat on it and get it good and hot.

 

What's a "small impact"? Brand, pics?

 

Who even actually torques those except initially from the factory. The derby cover screws should be snug and that's it. He scratched his primary cover not the derby cover which really sucks!