Riding to dealer to have fan assisted oil cooler that I installed turned on with the Digital tech, and to also have my blown saddle bag lid speaker replaced.
Measure from the backside of the mounting bracket, where it touches the frame.
Here are a couple of late night pics from my dimly lit garage, hope this help you see what I am after.
Its hard to tell but the end of the tape is at the back of the bracket, the part that touches the frame its bolted to. Distance is about 4 1/16". This just shows the distance from the floorboard to the derby cover, about 3/4".
Now if the 2015's and up use the same bracket, it should be approx 1 3/4" from the derby cover, instead of 3/4" like mine. I understand the new primary cover is like 7/8" narrower than mine.
The part number for the footboard support has remained the same from 2010 to 2020.
Speaking of derby covers. I have been wondering about swapping my 2014 primary cover for the newer narrow one. But one thing I have noticed, is the rear floor boards get in my way as much or more than the primary. Are the mount brackets for the rear floorboards, on the narrow primary models (2015 and up I think) narrower also?
Hope thats not too confusing?
are you riding 2-up? Floorboards are in your way when they are folded up? For sure they are not in your way when you are at a stop with your legs down like the primary cover is. When are the pass floorboards in your way?
I wasn't referring to the frame width, but rather, the bolt on bracket. On mine the pass floorboard comes within about 1/2" of the derby, so do the floor boards still stick out as far as mine, or are they kept tucked in near the derby cover? In theory, the mounting brackets, that bolt on, could be about 1" shorter, or closer to the frame. Or do they now stick out over an inch from the derby, using the same old floorboard mount as mine?
Yeah I didn't look up mounts but looks like someone else did. Not sure what's going on. I have pegs on back with Kuryakyn stirrups to move my ole lady's feet out some. When I fold the left one up the foot peg hits the side cover slightly but I think that's because of the stirrup.
Well after my post I ran into a ton of issue with the trask derby cover (some of my own making, others because of design and lack of instructions). Was in the garage until 10 PM trouble shooting and attempting to fix.
Rode around and didn't notice any issues. Got home, ate dinner and had to go to garage to get something. Notice primary fluid on the floor. Uggggghhhh.
I pull out the shiny new Milwuakee M12 ratchet and proceed to take the derby cover off. 1st problem - I strip the top of a hex bolt. Not sure if it was the screw being cheaply made, my socket bit (which is a cheap brand) or too much torque from the M12. Regardless, was a bitch getting it off. Tried all the tricks. Finally, I used a Klein t-handle torx, hammered it in with a soft hammer, and was able to manually take it off. Quality tools like Klein t-handles get the job done.
I inspect the derby cover and easily see my problem. I'm missing a seal. The box came with two seals, and I stupidly thought, "cool, they give me an extra". There is actually a seal setting area between the acrylic and top plate (design is interesting in that it is a 3 part derby cover - main plate, top plate and acrylic). Happy because I'm pretty sure I can easily fix the problem.
However, it was insanely difficult to get the seal to stay in place. Despite my finger gymnastics trying to affix the seal and acrylic plate, it kept on getting out of place so I couldn't get a good seal.
Again, another quality tool came to the rescue. Used a snap on seal remover tool and was able to get it done (using the thin head of the tool to press the seal in at an awkward angle.
Woke up this morning and instead of a puddle, I saw two drops on the paper towel I laid down. Could have been excess primary fluid or grease from my recently greased jiffy stand, so gonna watch it today.
Biggest complaint from Trask is it didn't come with any instructions. Looked everywhere and didn't see any torque settings which was annoying. Seems like that should be mandatory. Torqued the man bolts to 100 in lbs (spec for stock derby cover). Hand torqued the top bracket to the same settings but would have been nice to have specs from the manufacturer. Will need to reach out to trask for extra bolts and seals.
At least I had the tools to fix the issue (well I hope fixed).
are you riding 2-up? Floorboards are in your way when they are folded up? For sure they are not in your way when you are at a stop with your legs down like the primary cover is. When are the pass floorboards in your way?
Mostly if I need to walk the bike into a parking spot, and yes two up, not all the time, but no wish to bolt and unbolt just to ride.
Picked up a Milwaukee M12 battery ratchet. Hemmed and hawed over an air ratchet or battery and went battery. Love it.
Put it to good use already for a simple job. Installed a Trask clear derby cover.
Originally Posted by wolverinehusky
I pull out the shiny new Milwuakee M12 ratchet and proceed to take the derby cover off. 1st problem - I strip the top of a hex bolt. Not sure if it was the screw being cheaply made, my socket bit (which is a cheap brand) or too much torque
That was my first concern when you posted the Milwaukee ratchet. I'm sure it's great but the torques on these small bolts/screws is so low that stripping is bound to happen.
Woulda been sweet for doing my Jeep TJ differential fluid last weekend though I'm sure.
That was my first concern when you posted the Milwaukee ratchet. I'm sure it's great but the torques on these small bolts/screws is so low that stripping is bound to happen.
Woulda been sweet for doing my Jeep TJ differential fluid last weekend though I'm sure.
You are spot on. I kinda knew I shouldn't have used it for the bolt in question, but my eagerness to use something new and flashy got the better of me. Lesson learned (I'm very much an amateur DIYer/mechanic - so still learning).
06-09-2020, 06:11 AM
