As far as I know, I never had an order in. I couldn't meet the deadline for the sale price remember? I sent you a PM, which I know you read because I got confirmation of it, but you never got back to me. I just assumed you were too busy with your startup business to respond...which is understandable given the attention you've drawn here and on other forums by word of mouth.


I looked into the valve for the air chairs, and its not a remote electrical, but another manual valve that releases flow from the tractor trailers air tanks...thats a no go.

 

I think I've found what I need. It doesn't link directly to the page however so I took a screen shot which will have all the information needed for others to find the same.



[IMG]local://upfiles/8587/43D506E49EA74BF1ADB34D59A7CE1497.jpg[/IMG]

 

Look at this unit.

http://www.poweraire.com/pdf/other/p...rol_Valves.pdf

Catalog 0600P-7/USA

Common Part Numbers
3-Way Universal Inline
24" Leads Voltage Port Size

MKH0NBG45A 12VDC

1/8" NPT
Port #1 & #3
2
1 3

 

Update: I tried the Parker/Micro King valve boargaurd led me to. I had a couple problems with it. Initially, the valve was stuck inside and wouldn't dump air from the system. That was remedied with some penetrating fluid shot into the ports then repeatedly energizing the solenoid to work itself free.

Now however, I have the system complete, but the body of the Parker valve leaks in a couple locations. The two metal halves of the body do not have a gasket between them which I found odd. I tried cranking down the bolts that clamp the two halves together, to the point where the casing started to deform where the bolts contact....no luck. Still leaks at that mid seam. I think I will be able to solve that with an application of JBWeld though.

My bigger concern is the leak at the bottom where the round rubber diaphragm is kept in place with that cheezy retainer plate. I don't know how this was ever meant to be air tight. It seems like this valve was poorly designed. For this I intend to try putting some silicone adhesive on the lip just inside the edge of the rubber diaphragm and on the outside of it between the retainer plate as well. This will hopefully seal off the air there and yet give the diaphragm the flexibility it needs to do whatever it is that it does.

If this doesn't take care of the leak, I'm definitely not wasting my money on another parker valve. I'll try the Ingersol Rand version I found at the grainger web site....unless someone else has anyother ideas.

 

How about a nitrous solenoid/valve.

 

I don't know anything about nitrous systems...I'll try looking on the N.O.S. site and see what I can see.