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Just picked up new 2011 SG - Very Frustrated

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  #11  
Old 04-02-2011, 06:17 PM
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they have to have the ECM reflashed by rev performance, I am not a mechanic, but installed mine myself, and it has worked flawless. make sure they installed the 18 mm oxygen sensors, will not work right with the 12 mm that came on the bike. You only have to let it idle for about 5 minutes, then it is good to ride.
 

Last edited by kbktulsa; 04-02-2011 at 06:20 PM.
  #12  
Old 04-02-2011, 06:53 PM
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please explain why would ANY ONE ust one of these fuel management devices , especially on a $25,000 bike--the dealer here made it VERY CLEAR never to ues one and also stated that if i had it would void my warranty.is there any benefit other than you dont have to take the bike in and have it retuned.
 
  #13  
Old 04-02-2011, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by fat bob bob
please explain why would ANY ONE ust one of these fuel management devices , especially on a $25,000 bike--the dealer here made it VERY CLEAR never to ues one and also stated that if i had it would void my warranty.is there any benefit other than you dont have to take the bike in and have it retuned.
Your dealer lied to you....
"No aftermarket part or accessory that is properly installed on your vehicle will entirely void your original vehicle manufacturers warranty. According to the provisions in the Magnuson-Moss Warranty - Federal Trade Commission Improvement Act, It is the dealership's responsibility to prove that your modification directly caused or affected the failure you are trying to resolve."
 
  #14  
Old 04-02-2011, 07:10 PM
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I am admittedly new to H-D's (rode only a little when I was young---just got my FLHX in the fall), but I am extremely hesitant to start doing anything substantial to the engine. Pipes are one thing---but when you start futzing the the engine--and the electronics of the engine on a brand new bike... Especially when you are using used parts from another bike...
Let's just say I am not willing to go down that road.
That being said---if you had this installed at an HD Dealership---then they should darn well stand by their work. If they anticipated any problems with install--they should have let you know before doing it.
 
  #15  
Old 04-02-2011, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyStark
I traded my 09 in on an 11 Power Pak Street Glide about a month ago or so. While it was still at the dealer I had some mods installed. I put on Jackpot 2/1/2 headers,V&H Twin Slash Rounds, SE A/C, SE204 Cam, Rev Performance EMS Tuner. So today's the day I was finally going to pick it up and ride. Weather here in WI is about 50 today not great but rideable. So I go pick it up and when I first start it........Man, that sounded good. The cam has a great idle. The new Jackpot headers along with my V&H Twin Slash Rounds sounded great. Noticeably louder than the 09 I traded in even though the 09 didn't have a Cat.

That's where the good ends. So as I pull out onto the highway I notice a little hesitation around the 1800-2500 RPM range. I just figured maybe the EMS is working itself in a little bit and it's not in the power band of the cam. I get up to highway speed and am shifting through the gears and running around 3000ish RPMs. Once it got up around 3000 rpms in it seems to run fine. Good pull- not great. I know you aren't supposed to lug the engine so I am trying to keep the RPM's a little higher as I'm riding. So I shift into fifth to see what the RPMs would be at and hit the throttle a little and clunk, ping, pop. I was like, whoa. Something is really wrong. Again, I thought maybe the tuner is adjusting itself. It seems to ride alright above 3000 but runs like crap below. I'm not just talking power band I mean runs bad. It shut off on me 2 times on the way home when I came to a stoplight.

So, after about 50 miles or so and a half a tank of gas later I drove back to the dealer and talked to the tech that worked on my bike. He said it sounds like a timing and fuel control issue and I should get in touch with Rev Perf. It pisses me off cause everyone that has this tuner had rave reviews about it. I thought I would just get on and ride. The dealer kept saying get the race tuner but I thought the EMS would be great for doing future mods and everyone else seems to love it. Now I am left wondering what is wrong at this point. The tech was almost acting like I told you so. In all fairness I am not bashing the EMS. I haven' had a chance to talk to Rev Perf so I'm not saying that if it is a tuner issue they won't take care of it.

So, now what? I don't know if I should stop riding the bike until the problem is fixed now or what. It runs alright 3k and above. It also runs alright if I take off easy and don't give too much throttle. At idle it seems alright and if I rev it at idle no blips. It's only under load. Anyone else have a similar experience or have any suggestions? Man, I'm frustrated!
The Jackpot headers are designed to work with the factory or jackpot mufflers for best results. The left and right factory mufflers are different flow per side. The headpipe was designed for a 2/1/2 look but made to flow like a 2/1 pipe. 2nd, why would you let a mechanic work on it if he did not agree with the items being installed? If he was confident or comfortable with the race tuner, i would have gone that route. If you purchased the items from the installing dealer, they should make it right. If you brought in the items and had them do the work, you would be responsible for any labor or problem caused by the item. That is fair. Why should the dealer be penalized for an item which isn't theirs or the labor to remove and reinstall an replaced item that failed which they can't warranty. Double check the install instructions and see if anything was missed or skipped. I.E.) ECM learning idle time or the use of 18mm O2 sensors versus the 12mm the 11 has.
 
  #16  
Old 04-02-2011, 07:42 PM
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Yea, um isn't the SE fuel module a "Fuel management device"? I have a friend who just bought an 11, it has 500 miles on it, he's trying to get to the 1,000 mile mark to get his Dyno tune done. It has the 2-1 V&H Pro Pipe,, sounds SWEET. (Also the 103 kit)
On a side note, is the 103 going to be much better than the stock 96? I see in the for sale section here that someone has new jugs and pistons for the 103. Would it be worth the effort?
To the OP, find a different dealer I guess, because if THEY INSTALLED it, They would fix it in my opinion,,,,
 
  #17  
Old 04-02-2011, 08:27 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. The SE Race tuner was recommended by the parts guy not the tech. They always try to push HD stuff. Not that HD stuff is bad but every review I heard said this thing was awesome. Actually the tech said he has used rev perf parts for years on his racing bikes and said their stuff is good. Again, to be fair to the dealership and rev perf it is the weekend and can't get many answers so maybe it is an easy fix. Hope so.

If it is indeed a tuner problem there isn't much the dealer can do about it since they didn't make the tuner. My first step will have to be to get in touch with rev perf on Monday and explain what is happening to the bike while I ride it. It is much stronger above 3000 rpms than stock. It just runs bad below that.

I actually switched bikes with my brother (i rode his and he rode mine) who has the same bike with no mods just to see and hear how my bike performs. It smells like fuel to me when he took off. It almost seems like its flooding at low rpms. Not sure if that makes sense or not but thats what it seems like. I'm not sure what exactly rev perf does to the ecm when you send it to them but maybe they programmed it wrong by mistake.

I did ask the tech about the installation this morning. The tech who installed it said he did everything by the instructions. The reset, the 5 minute idle, everything. I didn't ask about the bungs. Jackpot comes with both sets so I guess I would assume they would use the correct ones. I will keep everyone updated when I learn more. I'm sure it can be fixed and I'm excited for when it does. It's much stronger running like crap than stock so when it is in tune it will be great. Thanks again for the help and advice.
 
  #18  
Old 04-02-2011, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyStark
Thanks for all the replies. The SE Race tuner was recommended by the parts guy not the tech. They always try to push HD stuff. Not that HD stuff is bad but every review I heard said this thing was awesome. Actually the tech said he has used rev perf parts for years on his racing bikes and said their stuff is good. Again, to be fair to the dealership and rev perf it is the weekend and can't get many answers so maybe it is an easy fix. Hope so.

If it is indeed a tuner problem there isn't much the dealer can do about it since they didn't make the tuner. My first step will have to be to get in touch with rev perf on Monday and explain what is happening to the bike while I ride it. It is much stronger above 3000 rpms than stock. It just runs bad below that.

I actually switched bikes with my brother (i rode his and he rode mine) who has the same bike with no mods just to see and hear how my bike performs. It smells like fuel to me when he took off. It almost seems like its flooding at low rpms. Not sure if that makes sense or not but thats what it seems like. I'm not sure what exactly rev perf does to the ecm when you send it to them but maybe they programmed it wrong by mistake.

I did ask the tech about the installation this morning. The tech who installed it said he did everything by the instructions. The reset, the 5 minute idle, everything. I didn't ask about the bungs. Jackpot comes with both sets so I guess I would assume they would use the correct ones. I will keep everyone updated when I learn more. I'm sure it can be fixed and I'm excited for when it does. It's much stronger running like crap than stock so when it is in tune it will be great. Thanks again for the help and advice.
Sounds like you are reasonable and have a plan to fix in the works. Hopefully it is a simple fix so you can get on the road and enjoy your ride.
 
  #19  
Old 04-02-2011, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyStark
So as I pull out onto the highway I notice a little hesitation around the 1800-2500 RPM range. I just figured maybe the EMS is working itself in a little bit and it's not in the power band of the cam. I get up to highway speed and am shifting through the gears and running around 3000ish RPMs. Once it got up around 3000 rpms in it seems to run fine. Good pull- not great. I know you aren't supposed to lug the engine so I am trying to keep the RPM's a little higher as I'm riding. So I shift into fifth to see what the RPMs would be at and hit the throttle a little and clunk, ping, pop. I was like, whoa. Something is really wrong. Again, I thought maybe the tuner is adjusting itself. It seems to ride alright above 3000 but runs like crap below. I'm not just talking power band I mean runs bad. It shut off on me 2 times on the way home when I came to a stoplight.
When I put the dynojet PC-V and autotune on my bike last year, I was having all kinds of problems getting the autotune to work properly. I'd download a base map and go ride. At first, it would be ok, but after enough time had gone by, and if I accepted the trims the autotune was suggesting, pretty soon the bike would become unrideable. I'd re-install the base map and try again, but get the same results, with the bike gradually becoming worse and worse until you couldn't ride it.

My problem turned out to be reversion at the rear cylinder. The rear O2 sensor was picking up exhaust gasses from the front cylinder, and it was throwing the readings off, and the longer I rode, the more the autotune would take it out of tune.

I don't know enough about the Rev Performance system to offer any specific advice, other than to make sure it's wired correctly and the O2 sensors are working.

Check your documentation from Rev Performance. There's got to be a functionality check on the O2 sensors. Make sure they're reading properly, and are connected to the correct cylinder. There's a bit of wiring that needs to be checked, too. There's a ground wire, a wire that goes to the fuse panel, and a wire that taps into a wire in the ECM bundle. Double check everything. Whether it's an exhaust reversion problem like I was having, or whether the O2 sensors just aren't working at all, that's what you need to sort out.

If the EMS system is working properly, then you might have a cam timing problem, but I'd guess it's more likely that there's something improperly wired with the autotune system.
 
  #20  
Old 04-02-2011, 10:48 PM
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the oxygen sensors come adjusted for the front or rear cyl. they may have gotten them mixed up, that could maybe be the problem. and rev perf could have flashed the ecm wrong. Have had many ecm programed for cars, and have had to send a few of them back because the flash didnt take. Hope they cure your problem and it will perform much better than stock when they get it right.
 


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