am reading some putting red Loctite #262 on the comp bolt but the manual does not mention doing this?

It does state the clutch hub mainshaft nut needs the #262 (pg 5-7 in 2012 Touring Service Manual)

Maybe I missed it in the manual?

Have read some put blue on it? or does the bolt come in the kit w/ the blue on it?

Replacing one on a 2008 w/ the SE kit shortly....thanks.

 

..........

 

According to the instructions for the current SE Compensator, a new bolt should be used. Bolt comes with a loctite patch on it. It's up to you whether you want to spend the $4 for a new bolt. I'm guessing the manufacturer is suggesting a bolt replacement due to the potential of the bolt failing if re-used.

 

Cool. If it has the Loctite on it, then why would some apply red #262 as well?
Unless they are reusing their old bolt (?)

I ordered a kit, it'll arrive later this week or next.

My fear is having to put in a stator someday and the monkeying w/ removing the bolt a time or few over the life of a bike if it has red on it.

 

2 foot breaker bar will over come the red loctite! No worries.

 

Yea, have read! Can't be as hard as removing a wheel bearing on a Dodge Ram (been there done that)


Just to be clear: are folks applying the #262 Red Loctite to the 70 Torx bolt or the large 1 1/2 comp nut? (or both)

Thanks.

 

Also, have read on Harley Tech Talk to not use the polyurethene 'step' thing to lock the primary when removing clutch/comp etc.

So, going to make my own lock tool similar to the SE one from bar stock at Lowes etc. Sounds like many guys do this.

My question is: does this need to made out of aluminum? or does it matter?

Looks to be 5.95" from my reading?

Thanks.

 

I used construction grade pine 2x4. a small block with an angle cut. didnt mar the teeth, was strong enough to withstand any torque and the soft wood let it bite and not need another set of hands to hold it in place while I got a wrench on the nut.......probably not approved, unless you are a lawnmower hack like me. se comp at 25K, solid aluminim sprocket at 45K and 75K, still running fine...

 

Did this recently.


The T70 comes with Loctite already applied.


The Clutch Hub Nut requires a couple drops of Loctite Red.


Make sure to degrease the threads with something like Brake Kleen before applying the T70 or the Clutch Nut. Remember the Clutch Hub Nut is Right-Loosen, Left-Tighten.


Buy the correct tool for locking the sprockets together, it will make the job lots easier!


You will need a breaker bar for the T70 if you ever have to remove it. Always use a new bolt!

 

am reading many do this w/out removing clutch pack. Hoping to do the same....unless theres some huge mechanical reason not to (?)