Clutch too Tight..?
#1
Clutch too Tight..?
Got a question regarding the clutch on my 2010 FLHTK (103 Limited)
Noticed that the clutch feels very tough to pull in compared to other Limited's of the same year. I know it's supposed to have the "Reduced Effort" clutch installed but mine doesn't feel like it has it...
Anyone else gotten a bike with this issue..?
I've got medical issues that have effected the strength in my left hand which makes this more problematic for me... prolly wouldn't bother others quite as much.
Anyone installed an after market ez clutch..? If so, any comments.?
Noticed that the clutch feels very tough to pull in compared to other Limited's of the same year. I know it's supposed to have the "Reduced Effort" clutch installed but mine doesn't feel like it has it...
Anyone else gotten a bike with this issue..?
I've got medical issues that have effected the strength in my left hand which makes this more problematic for me... prolly wouldn't bother others quite as much.
Anyone installed an after market ez clutch..? If so, any comments.?
#2
I also have medical issues that has effected the strength in my left hand I'm experiencing the same problem with the clutch on my 2011 Limited. I was told that with the 103 the clutch has a heavier spring, don't know it that's true or not. I do know that clutch on 2011 Ultra with the 96 is easier. Interested to see what can be done.
#3
more motor power- stronger clutch spring.
Assuming that all is adjusted properly.
---- different primary lubes will make the clutch work differently.
I use H-D lubes. the previous owner of my bike put in amsoil at 5000 miles, at 6500 miles I went back to H-D fluids.
The action of the clutch was very different - and I needed to re-adjust the clutch with the H-D lube.---this surprised me.
the H-D reduced effort clutch IS the easy boy lite clutch type mechanism under the H-D name...it just took H-D 20 years to adopt it ( or maybe buy/license a patent when White Brothers dissolved). ( this is an extended reach lever under the tranny end cover)
There is/was the AMP clutch lever mechanism, which installs on the bars- you could look into that.
You could look into an aftermarket hydraulic clutch.
Like a brake set up, it would use a larger master cylinder to move the small slave cylinder to move the clutch with reduced effort
or an air shifter- look at Pingel, push a button- the bike shifts. Some models use an ignition kill which kills spark for the interval when the gear shifts are made, so that there is little strain on the drivetrain.
Everytime I read riders with hand/wrist trouble I wonder when my turn will come ( arthritis). I had a tank-shift FL for years, I think I'll go back that route ( foot clutch) if i have to.
mike
Assuming that all is adjusted properly.
---- different primary lubes will make the clutch work differently.
I use H-D lubes. the previous owner of my bike put in amsoil at 5000 miles, at 6500 miles I went back to H-D fluids.
The action of the clutch was very different - and I needed to re-adjust the clutch with the H-D lube.---this surprised me.
the H-D reduced effort clutch IS the easy boy lite clutch type mechanism under the H-D name...it just took H-D 20 years to adopt it ( or maybe buy/license a patent when White Brothers dissolved). ( this is an extended reach lever under the tranny end cover)
There is/was the AMP clutch lever mechanism, which installs on the bars- you could look into that.
You could look into an aftermarket hydraulic clutch.
Like a brake set up, it would use a larger master cylinder to move the small slave cylinder to move the clutch with reduced effort
or an air shifter- look at Pingel, push a button- the bike shifts. Some models use an ignition kill which kills spark for the interval when the gear shifts are made, so that there is little strain on the drivetrain.
Everytime I read riders with hand/wrist trouble I wonder when my turn will come ( arthritis). I had a tank-shift FL for years, I think I'll go back that route ( foot clutch) if i have to.
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 03-10-2011 at 10:59 AM.
#4
Had the same issue with my wifes 2010 SG Trike. She has the 103 engine. She was complaining about her clutch being too tight. It did feel harder to pull than my 2010 RK clutch. Theirs an HDforums member named HogDoc. He's a HD Mechanic. Used to post on here all the time with great info. Don't see him much anymore??? I asked him about her clutch. He said the new clutch cables are lined and don't really need oiling, But he oils his because of arthritis in his hands. I went to my local Dealer and bought a bottle of cable lube. Inox is the lube name. It helped a lot.
#5
#6
*** UPDATE ***
Just came back from the dealership... They replaced the clutch cable and the clutch is PERFECT now... It's gotta be 60% easier to pull if not more.
The comment the service guy said was that if any previous service was done using a graphite based lubricate, the cable could get gunked up... It's a full warranty bike and all my service has been done by Harley Mechanics... regardless, he suggested Inox Lube and that's what I'll be using at regular intervals.
Feels awesome now! What a relief!
Just came back from the dealership... They replaced the clutch cable and the clutch is PERFECT now... It's gotta be 60% easier to pull if not more.
The comment the service guy said was that if any previous service was done using a graphite based lubricate, the cable could get gunked up... It's a full warranty bike and all my service has been done by Harley Mechanics... regardless, he suggested Inox Lube and that's what I'll be using at regular intervals.
Feels awesome now! What a relief!
#7
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