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Crank Scissoring

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  #41  
Old 03-11-2011, 05:24 PM
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While I agree that the new pressed together flywheel assembly is not as good as previous units, scissoring is still not real common. I know a lot of guys with Twin Cams in various states of modifications. I only know one guy who had this happen. He loved doing burnouts, would clutch at low speed and rev it then dump the clutch, and generally rode it really hard. His bike was an '05 Roadglide with a 95" kit, cams, and headwork. I have nearly 50,000 miles on an '02 with over 100h.p. and 100 ft. lbs. of torque and screw it on from a roll regularly and no problems. The '02 does have the forged wheels and Timken left side bearings though. I also have an '07 with a mild 103" build and it's been fine for over 30,000 miles. I don't do herky jerky stuff with it, I just ride it all over the Western States and never worry. These are actually very good bikes if you don't abuse them. If they had the bolt together flywheel assembly, or if you have your pressed together unit welded and re trued, they'd be bulletproof.

While I would definitely go with a welded crankpin if I was going to build a serious powerplant, I don't see any reason to sweat the stock setup if you ride it normally.
 
  #42  
Old 03-11-2011, 06:59 PM
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The issue with " scissoring" is really just one of many F.U.'s by HD engineering over the last few years. When you add some the other past offenders on every one's list, you start to get a picture. HD's engineering department has become a reactionary unit to problems but, only after owner outcries force the issue. Instead of being proactive to potential problems or enough evaluation, they go ahead with production and leave us the owners to do the road evaluations. This is BS in my book!

Here attached is a list of just a few new problems you will be hearing about, starting with the 2011 bikes. The bushing less rods and cam plate. Also, ask around about anyone's bearings walking out on their main bearing, they added a retainer for the right main bearing, wonder why? The new bearing in the clutch hub, they changed to the new SE comp but, forgot the clutch hub bearing that people were losing. Did I mention wheel bearing problems? You think they got a bearing vendor problem?

Again it's a question of a product being released for production without enough testing and evaluation. I went though the AMF years, start to finish and up to now. We need to be concerned because we ride these bikes. Sorry for the rant, should probably have not had a few beers.
 
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  #43  
Old 03-11-2011, 07:09 PM
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One of my friends at my local dealer admit there's a problem and states it occurs with significant frequency. If more people put more miles on their scoot, it would be even more significant. I don't beat on the bike. I don't do burnouts or wheelies. Do I use the power? Yes, of course. I'm only running about 85 hp and 103 lb ft of torque. The only incident I remember was one, I repeat one missed shift. If that's all it takes, and if my dealer's experience is accurate, Houston I think we have a problem.
 
  #44  
Old 03-11-2011, 07:31 PM
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Ive been thinking about this all freaking day. I looked in the SE catalog last night at the SE flywheel assembly and they are about 1200 bones. I also looked at rev perf webpage and the best I can tell their prices on truing and weldng have gone up too. Still alot less than a whole set up but you've still got the bushingless rods. I plan to do a build eventually and I wont even go there without addressing the crank issue. I'll just have to buy a few parts at a time until Ive got everything I guess... How would you go about resolving the crank issue? Or would you just save to buy the beefier 120R... that still is not as bulletproof as a true and weld?
 
  #45  
Old 03-12-2011, 06:04 AM
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I think the jury is still out on the 120R engine. It will be a couple years before we get any real feedback on their reliability. There are also many other parts to purchase even after you get this engine , i.e.; manifold, new injectors, clutch upgrade, etc. For piece of mind I would go for truing and welding the crank. I would also go for better bearings on everything. The many professional independents out there do all this but, expect to pay big $$. The old saying, "you get what you pay for", is very true when it comes to engine builds.
 
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