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Crank Scissoring

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  #21  
Old 03-10-2011, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by jjnoble
I can tell by the descriptions in this thread, I do not have this problem. What I don't understand is what scissoring is. Can someone explain what you guys are talking about?
The crankshaft is a three piece affair that is pressed together. The crankshaft pin, which is what the connecting rods ride on is pressed into the left and ride flywheels. If (or when) the flywheel slips or rotates even a minor amount, the crankshaft is no longer true and the shafts off the flywheel wobble in the crank main bearings. There's extra vibration and wear and tear on the oil pump and cam plate (maybe even destruction). Check out the following link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjpujEtYEI8
 
  #22  
Old 03-10-2011, 08:24 AM
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Just checked my 2010 service manual and it reads .004 runout.
 
  #23  
Old 03-10-2011, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by RAP
Just checked my 2010 service manual and it reads .004 runout.
If thats the case then the OP's is out of spec.
 
  #24  
Old 03-10-2011, 08:47 AM
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I just love this "NEW" Harley Davidson QUALITY

Ride In Peace
 
  #25  
Old 03-10-2011, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RAP
Just checked my 2010 service manual and it reads .004 runout.
Does anyone have an '11 manual they can check on this for sure? .004 is a long way from the .012 previously mentioned in this thread.
 
  #26  
Old 03-10-2011, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mongomark
The crankshaft is a three piece affair that is pressed together. The crankshaft pin, which is what the connecting rods ride on is pressed into the left and ride flywheels. If (or when) the flywheel slips or rotates even a minor amount, the crankshaft is no longer true and the shafts off the flywheel wobble in the crank main bearings. There's extra vibration and wear and tear on the oil pump and cam plate (maybe even destruction). Check out the following link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjpujEtYEI8

I learned something today, thank you for explaining mongo and thanks for the video.
 
  #27  
Old 03-10-2011, 12:18 PM
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I just watched a couple of the Revolution videos per Rickr01's suggestion. They are well worth the 20 - 30 minutes it takes (depends on how many you watch). For those of us who are not up to the level of some of our brothers on here, they're definitely an eye opener. I've read quite a few posts that referenced welded cranks etc and I was never quite sure what they were talking about or why you would do it. It all makes sense now! Thanks Rick!

If I were going to drop a few grand upgrading my motor I'd have to strongly consider getting the crank done. Like a few folks have said, if you've got the motor apart anyway, why not do the heads. Well, it may make sense if you're going that far to just go ahead and do the crank too if money is not too tight. Something to think about.
 
  #28  
Old 03-10-2011, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by texasrich27
I just watched a couple of the Revolution videos per Rickr01's suggestion. They are well worth the 20 - 30 minutes it takes (depends on how many you watch). For those of us who are not up to the level of some of our brothers on here, they're definitely an eye opener. I've read quite a few posts that referenced welded cranks etc and I was never quite sure what they were talking about or why you would do it. It all makes sense now! Thanks Rick!

If I were going to drop a few grand upgrading my motor I'd have to strongly consider getting the crank done. Like a few folks have said, if you've got the motor apart anyway, why not do the heads. Well, it may make sense if you're going that far to just go ahead and do the crank too if money is not too tight. Something to think about.
Yes, very good. I missed that.
 
  #29  
Old 03-10-2011, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MNPGRider
Does anyone have an '11 manual they can check on this for sure? .004 is a long way from the .012 previously mentioned in this thread.
The spec, for warranty purposes, was changed from .003" to .012" in '07, IIRC. You won't find it in the SM. If you doubt it, just tell your dealer your bike has been vibrating and you have checked your crank runout and it is out .008" and you want to make an appointment to have it replaced under warranty. Let us know how that goes.
 
  #30  
Old 03-10-2011, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MNPGRider
Does anyone have the years these changes went into effect (crank runout specs, missing bearings, etc?) In checking my '06 service manual, we still have a .003 runout spec.

You can find the specs at the beginning of the "Engine" part of your service manual. Thanks !
Have a look at thefollowing :

START QUOTE FROM TT324

TT324 - August 22, 2007 refers:
" Inspection of Twin Cam crankshaft assemblies are different from previous flywheels and require unique inspeciton procedures.

Additionally, the run-out specifications listed in 1999-2007 service manuals need to be corrected.
Flywheel Specifications: run out in the crankcase: 0.0 - 0.010 in.
Flywheel Service Wear Limits: run-out in the crankcase: 0.012 in.

Scissored crankshafts (when they shift out of true at the crankpin) generally show up in one of two different symptoms: no oil pressure or vibration.

No oil pressure:
When the rightside crankshaft half shifts more than 0.015 in it can break the oil pump's gerotors resultign in loss of oil pressure.
[goes on to say how to to measure]

If your reading exceeds 0.012 in it is very likely the crankshaft needs to be replaced.
[more words to contact HD technical services]

Vibration:
Crankshaft run-out generally needs to exceed 0.020" to be perceivable to the rider, so it is much more than likely that your vibration issues will be resolved by following the checklist provided in Section One of the Service Manual, under troubleshooting.
If you have verified correct chassis set-up and eliminated things like bound isolator mounts, power train to frame contact, and other wear items and feel it necessary to verify the crankshaft's state of true proceed to inspection of the left crankshaft's run-out.
[goes on to say check the compensating sprocket / driveline; then check left side of crank run-out.]

If your reading exceeds 0.012" and is under warranty contact technical services to discuss the appropriate repair/inspection before continuing.

If the vehicle is out of warranty you will need to discuss the appropriate repair with the customer (ESP coverage, flywheel replacement, dealer level rebuild, or factory Reman).
In order to take a mroe accurate reading of the crankshaft run-out it will require removingt he flywheels from the crankcases."
END QUOTE FROM TT324

Hope this helps.....
 


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