Audio Upgrade for FLHTC
#1
#3
I'm cheap.
I also have worked with audio equipment for over 30 years.
with out looking at individual products, there are a lot of junk amps out there with poor frequency response and ridiculous distortion specs ( in the 70's .002% THD was the standard to meet).
Class D digital switching amps can provide gobs of power, but the sampling rate can be a problem. Class T are better.
For my needs the stock stereo works well- and I'm starting to figure out that blasting the stereo + road and wind noise is going to pooch what's left of my hearing faster than otherwise- on the old Evo I had earbuds wired up the stereo, kept the music in, the road noise out and resulted in less over-all hearing fatigue.
If I were to upgrade the stereo ( and i am cheap)- i would look for more efficient speakers before an amp.
Speakers are rated for sensitivity; X decibels at 1 watt at 1 metre. the bigger the number X is the better. X= 90dB is the low end of the range...you can search for speaker closer to 100 dB ( which would be more than twice as loud for the same electrical power from the stereo).
just look for a nice flat frequency response curve---no harsh peaks at 1 kHz etc.
I wrote a post a few weeks ago for another rider, in which I explained how i buy speakers from a big box store display
mike
I also have worked with audio equipment for over 30 years.
with out looking at individual products, there are a lot of junk amps out there with poor frequency response and ridiculous distortion specs ( in the 70's .002% THD was the standard to meet).
Class D digital switching amps can provide gobs of power, but the sampling rate can be a problem. Class T are better.
For my needs the stock stereo works well- and I'm starting to figure out that blasting the stereo + road and wind noise is going to pooch what's left of my hearing faster than otherwise- on the old Evo I had earbuds wired up the stereo, kept the music in, the road noise out and resulted in less over-all hearing fatigue.
If I were to upgrade the stereo ( and i am cheap)- i would look for more efficient speakers before an amp.
Speakers are rated for sensitivity; X decibels at 1 watt at 1 metre. the bigger the number X is the better. X= 90dB is the low end of the range...you can search for speaker closer to 100 dB ( which would be more than twice as loud for the same electrical power from the stereo).
just look for a nice flat frequency response curve---no harsh peaks at 1 kHz etc.
I wrote a post a few weeks ago for another rider, in which I explained how i buy speakers from a big box store display
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 03-03-2011 at 12:21 PM.
#4
There is a sticky on the J&M 7.25" Speakers and it is about 100 reply's on it (I went thru it the other night). Any way they say use these speakers and it will improve the sound and the performence of the STOCK unit so much you may not even need a AMP ?
I would try that as these speakers are $200 for the pair , but the sound is GREAT ! and no AMP ?? That sounds GREAT to me. I have a Classic(2011) and I think it is stock with 80 watts so I do not think I need anymore to drive 2 speakers ?
I would try that as these speakers are $200 for the pair , but the sound is GREAT ! and no AMP ?? That sounds GREAT to me. I have a Classic(2011) and I think it is stock with 80 watts so I do not think I need anymore to drive 2 speakers ?
#7
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#10
i did that and it was a complete waste time and money, i ended up with a Arc set up with amp and it sounds great. jd