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  #11  
Old 03-03-2011 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by fabrik8r
Most fastener mfrs offer guideline torque tables for both dry and lubricated threads. However, a specific vehicle maintenance manual will specify lubricated in a particular procedure if that is the requirement, otherwise assume dry. The exhaust stud nuts are locking cinch nuts; why would you want to lubricate a locknut application?
mine never have been and I have changed a bunch. I always use anti sieze. they are a flange nut but not locking or cinch.
 
  #12  
Old 03-03-2011 | 05:48 PM
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Maybe when you posted in the exhaust section, people were too tired to respond.

Just did my exhaust, torque to spec.
 
  #13  
Old 03-03-2011 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by fabrik8r
Most fastener mfrs offer guideline torque tables for both dry and lubricated threads. However, a specific vehicle maintenance manual will specify lubricated in a particular procedure if that is the requirement, otherwise assume dry. The exhaust stud nuts are locking cinch nuts; why would you want to lubricate a locknut application?
Because it gets HOT. Fasteners that get hot often sieze without high temp anti sieze. I guess that's why the Service Manual says to use it on the exhaust flange studs (another reason I use it). Yeah the flange nuts are notorious for loosening up and need to be re torqued occasionally, but I'd rather do that than deal with a frozen nut and have to replace the stud.
 
  #14  
Old 03-03-2011 | 06:34 PM
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NOTHING ON THE THREADS, torque to spec.

FYI: Torque specs are always for clean dry threads with no lubricant, unless otherwise noted.

Where do you guys come up with this bad information? If you are not sure just make it up?
 
  #15  
Old 03-03-2011 | 06:40 PM
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I would suggest using High Temp Anti seize on the studs. Then torque to spec. Don't torque one completely while the other is loose. Rotate from one stud to the other as you torque. Don't use too much Anti Seize either or it might drip when it get's hot. Just a small amount will do. I check the torque on mine at every service. Haven't had one loosen yet.
 
  #16  
Old 03-03-2011 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by fabrik8r
why would you want to lubricate a locknut application?
So the nut wont seize on removal because of rust?

I used antiseize on mine.
 
  #17  
Old 03-03-2011 | 08:45 PM
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When I put my Rineharts on the instructions recommended High temp anti sieze which I used about six months ago. I was going over it last night for trip next week and two bolts were about 1 1/2 turn loose.
 
  #18  
Old 03-03-2011 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Northside
Because it gets HOT. Fasteners that get hot often sieze without high temp anti sieze. I guess that's why the Service Manual says to use it on the exhaust flange studs (another reason I use it). Yeah the flange nuts are notorious for loosening up and need to be re torqued occasionally, but I'd rather do that than deal with a frozen nut and have to replace the stud.
I just read all the way through the exhaust removal/installation procedures in my 2006 manual two times, not one mention of “anti-seize” or “lubricant” anywhere, even the notes. The closest thing to it was penetrant on the studs for disassembly. When the correct torque value is applied to a lubricated thread the result will be an over-tightened fastener because the lubrication allows the nut to turn easier. Lubriation will also allow a fastener to vibrate loose much easier. My exhaust flange nuts are definitely flanged cinch nuts. The exhaust flange stud nut is not a frequent use fasener like a wheel lug nut, its basically designed to go on once and stay on. I’m a machinist and a maintenance technician, I know my fasteners.
 
  #19  
Old 03-04-2011 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by fabrik8r
I just read all the way through the exhaust removal/installation procedures in my 2006 manual two times, not one mention of “anti-seize” or “lubricant” anywhere, even the notes. The closest thing to it was penetrant on the studs for disassembly. When the correct torque value is applied to a lubricated thread the result will be an over-tightened fastener because the lubrication allows the nut to turn easier. Lubriation will also allow a fastener to vibrate loose much easier. My exhaust flange nuts are definitely flanged cinch nuts. The exhaust flange stud nut is not a frequent use fasener like a wheel lug nut, its basically designed to go on once and stay on. I’m a machinist and a maintenance technician, I know my fasteners.
Thanks for the info.....I did not see the anti seize recommendation in my manual either. I was wondering about others experiences though, so I asked. I am going the clean dry route. Thanks
 
  #20  
Old 03-04-2011 | 01:43 PM
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Yes that is true, using any type of lubricant, sealer or locktight will increase the applied torque. When you use any lubricants when its not specified, you need to reduce the torque and that would depend on the type of material being used like aluminum, steel, stainless. Industry standards
 


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