There are countless threads about the valvetrain noise in the 96 incher here is one more. I just recently finished up installing cams and my handlebars within the last month, and had a little time to do some more tuning today.

I went into my SESPT and built another performance map I changed the A/F ratio starting with 14:1 in the first two columns gradually increasing to a richer fuel ratio as the rpm and kPa increased. This took all cells out of the EPA lean mixture and turned off my o2 sensors. I then took the bike for a ride to gather some tuning information for the smart tune and noticed I had no valve chatter and this thing is a beast. Shocked i took the bike back home ran a few smart tunes on it and its running perfect. I am not sure what my fuel mileage will be but if I stay around 40mpg i will be happy.

To test my theory, that the lean condition is the reason these engines have such a noisy valvetrain, I reloaded the previous map that had the original 14.6:1 with a few smart tunes and the chatter was back. So i installed my other "quiet" performance map back into the ECU,and the engine runs with no tap no tick at all.

You may want to give this a shot. Oh I also kept and reinstalled my stock pushrods and lifters when I did my cam.

I am just glad my engine is quieter than the ones on the BMW R1200 rt that the cops have around here, man those valves are loud!!!

 

38 mpg mostly city is what I am getting

 

You might look at www.nightrider.com. They have plug-in's.

Nightrider's unique "US Patent 7805236" design approximates a richer fuel mixtures to quickly and simply improve the closed loop fuel mixture on your TC96/103/110 engine from 14.6:1 to 14.2:1. This results in cooler exhaust temperatures. Recommended for stock bikes and those with upgraded exhaust or intake.

Cheap

 

now why would he want to do that? he's already got the sepst bought and installed?

 

The SEPST has that ability built in to it, you can go into the Closed Loop Bias table and change the o2 input values and this is suppose to trick the computer by making it think the signal is lower or higher than it actully is. I have tried this and I found that this is not accurate at all with the narrow band o2 sensors some days the bike would run great and sound great and others it was crap. So i went into the A/F ratio table and bypassed the o2 sensors all together and now the tick is gone and the bike runs the same weather its rain or shine. Unless you have the wide band o2 sensors this method is a shot in the dark at best, you have to tune the A/F ratio tables, ignition timing, and VE tables to get a bike running perfect.

 

Great Info.

I will wait until this comes out: https://www.superchips.com/default.aspx

Fuel Moto said he was working with them......

 

interesting...

 

I suspect the noise you hear is spark knock (detonation), which can be mitigated in many cases by decreasing AFR in critical places as you've done. If so you could have also retarded the spark a bit while leaving AFRs alone and that would likely get rid of the detonation and keep your good gas mileage. Of course that also means more heat, but that's another subject.

I'm running 14.6:1 in the cruise range with SE255 cams and have a very quiet engine--no spark knock and no more than normal top-end noise.

Those engines have solid lifters and will be noisier than a comparable engine with hydraulics. Also, some of the noise you hear in BMWs may originate with the injectors, as IIRC they are noisy too.

 

1. I was thinking it was a spark knock at first but it does not do it under any type of engine load its worse on deceleration. Most of the time i hear it when I am just crusing always around 2500rpm in all gears, but after the change its not there. I have also reviewed many data recording sessions and noticed my spark knock ionizing system did not engage to adjust my timing in these areas. My knock control values were at 0degrees during the whole recording time and i could still here the top end noise.

2. I wonder if this is because we are using two different tuners.

3. Even the new 2010 BMW's

 

rebuilt my top end this winter and had a loud tick like the op,worce when warmed up, used the tts tuner and also got some help.

researched this tick,loud drivetrain stuff a bit,was assured id tuned it right,read also it can get quiter but I didnt want to wait.

came to the conclusion I could go in two directions(actually three"live with it")

1)hand it over to a good dyno tech....$4,5,6..hundred

2)try the HQ black ops lifters....$180

So I replaced my (new this winter) stock lifters with the Head Quarters an WOW WTF tick gone! engine purrrrrs.. hot.. cold.. all rpm's

just my 2 cents worth