Alright I know this is probably a dead horse for more of you experienced guys on here, but I am slowly working up the courage to swap in se 255 cams into my 07 FLHR. I know there is a lot of threads on this subject, and I have yet to find a definitive list of tools/ parts needed to do a cam swap. I have read Atrain's step by step but it seems alot of you guys are doing this swap with less tools ie bearing puller,gaskets, etc. I was wondering if someone had a detailed listing of what is needed to do this swap, other than common hand tools. I already have a bike lift, but I'm wondering what all i would need to get together to make this an easy job as it is my first cam swap and i would really hate to harm my bike in any one on this one... Thanks -Dave

 

Very interested in this too.

 

I plan on installing the SE255 cams in my 07 Ultra this weekend. I can post you a complete after that.

 

I just finished mine last weekend...here goes...OH! by the way...it's really not that complicated...more intimitating than complicated...just document and take pictures and bag and oil and lubricate and ...welll...

Bearing
cams
assembly lube
red loctite
blue loctite
feeler gauge
straight edge
blind hole puller(auto zone rents or you can buy from Harbour freight for about $60)
bearing/seal installer(same as above for about $20)
i rented these
Screaming eagle quick install push rod kit
I bought the installation kit from Fuelmoto because i thought i was going throught the top but i changed my mind and cut the push rods insted... really easy...

you only need to buy the cam cover Gasket... the new o-rings come with the pushrod kit...if you take the oil pump out you may want to put a new o-ring in there...you can buy this from HD for cheap...
I had to change my cam sprocket space from a .020 to a .030 something like that, it needed .010 over....

other than that regular wrenches, socket, allen drives, torx drives...

Oh! in/lbs and ft/lbs torque wrenches

Again i will say...it was very intimitading until i got done then i said...**** ...that wasn't bad at all....

Most importantly, take your time and have fun with it.

I have a total of $350.. i used a used cam... Andrews 26H and my *** Dyno likes it.

 

To add to Notgrownup's list, be sure to replace the two o-rings in the cam plate. This needs to be stressed, as they are very important and you should also make sure they are seated properly. If they fall out or are pinched when the cam plate is re-installed it will cause sumping, which will require you to disassemble everything again to correct. When inserting the new o-rings, use some grease to hold them in during reassembly.

If you go through the rockers like I did, just buy the Fuel Moto cam-install kit, which also has the B168 bearings included. If you use adjustables you'll just need the nosecone gasket, the two cam-plate o-rings, and of course the B168 bearings. In that case the pushrod kit should have the tube o-rings included. Also, there's a small chance you'll need a cam-sprocket spacer thicker than stock (0.10"), and although most HD dealers should have these in stock I would check on this ahead of time. If you need another thickness you'll have to stop what you're doing 'til you get it.

The service manual is a good step-by-step guide, although you won't need either the cam-locking or alignment tools they mention. They are convenience tools that would be best to have if you do a lot of cam swaps, but not necessary for a one-time job like most of us are doing.

 

Just go through the rockers and save the money of the quick install pushrods.

 

Thanks to all for the quick replies, I do have intentions of going through the rockers on this one to keep it on the cheap, and one less thing i can mess up by avoiding the adjustable rods.The Harbor Freight puller looks like just what i need. Now i just need to find a cheap bearing install tool, as I like the idea of having the tools laying around for future use.

 

Gary Beatty sells a puller and installer combo for TC88's and TC96's for less than $100 shipped. I have one and it works flawlessly.

 

+1 on that. The tool pulls the old bearing and installs the new one, seating it at the correct depth. Here's a link. Beatty's email address is given in the first message.

 

torque down the rear cyclinder bolts are a pain in the ***. Dont forget when you use the torques adapters to fit those bolts you adjust for the difference. Otherwise you will overtorque the bolts and or nuts