255 Cam Swap Tool Listing Help
#11
02-13-2011, 04:40 PM
Thanks to all for the quick replies, I do have intentions of going through the rockers on this one to keep it on the cheap, and one less thing i can mess up by avoiding the adjustable rods.The Harbor Freight puller looks like just what i need. Now i just need to find a cheap bearing install tool, as I like the idea of having the tools laying around for future use.
#12
02-13-2011, 06:45 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
To add to Notgrownup's list, be sure to replace the two o-rings in the cam plate. This needs to be stressed, as they are very important and you should also make sure they are seated properly. If they fall out or are pinched when the cam plate is re-installed it will cause sumping, which will require you to disassemble everything again to correct. When inserting the new o-rings, use some grease to hold them in during reassembly.
If you go through the rockers like I did, just buy the Fuel Moto cam-install kit, which also has the B168 bearings included. If you use adjustables you'll just need the nosecone gasket, the two cam-plate o-rings, and of course the B168 bearings. In that case the pushrod kit should have the tube o-rings included. Also, there's a small chance you'll need a cam-sprocket spacer thicker than stock (0.10"), and although most HD dealers should have these in stock I would check on this ahead of time. If you need another thickness you'll have to stop what you're doing 'til you get it.
The service manual is a good step-by-step guide, although you won't need either the cam-locking or alignment tools they mention. They are convenience tools that would be best to have if you do a lot of cam swaps, but not necessary for a one-time job like most of us are doing.
If you go through the rockers like I did, just buy the Fuel Moto cam-install kit, which also has the B168 bearings included. If you use adjustables you'll just need the nosecone gasket, the two cam-plate o-rings, and of course the B168 bearings. In that case the pushrod kit should have the tube o-rings included. Also, there's a small chance you'll need a cam-sprocket spacer thicker than stock (0.10"), and although most HD dealers should have these in stock I would check on this ahead of time. If you need another thickness you'll have to stop what you're doing 'til you get it.
The service manual is a good step-by-step guide, although you won't need either the cam-locking or alignment tools they mention. They are convenience tools that would be best to have if you do a lot of cam swaps, but not necessary for a one-time job like most of us are doing.
The other thing that i didn't want to do was go throught the top for the push rods in case i wanted to change the cams again so i bit the bullet and the the quick install... I figured if i had to go back in i would not have to take the tank and top off again...Plus when i took the tank off i looked at the rocker box bolts and wasn't sure i wanted to tackle that....
#13
02-13-2011, 06:51 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
A symptom is sluggish. Think of the rods having to trudge through excess oil in the bottom end and how it would slow it down. If you pull the freeze plug in the bottom of the crank and get more than 6oz, it's sumping. If you didn't remove the oil pump then no need to replace the o-ring in the back. However, there are two o-rings in the oil passages that press against the plate that should be replaced.
#14
02-13-2011, 06:54 PM
Figured I would post this for those that don't wanna create an account for Harley Tech Talk
I have the combo tools for Evo, early and late model TC engines.
One tool for each of the following engine inner cam bearings: Evo(.812" i.d.), 99-06 TC88 (.875" i.d.)
and 06 Dyna-present TC96 (1.000" i.d.)
Each tool will remove AND install the inner cam bearings for that model.
$85 each.
$5 shipping by USPS Priority Mail 2-3 day service (outside USA will be extra)
PayPal and insurance available.
Email for details if interested.
beattygw@sbcglobal.net
I have the combo tools for Evo, early and late model TC engines.
One tool for each of the following engine inner cam bearings: Evo(.812" i.d.), 99-06 TC88 (.875" i.d.)
and 06 Dyna-present TC96 (1.000" i.d.)
Each tool will remove AND install the inner cam bearings for that model.
$85 each.
$5 shipping by USPS Priority Mail 2-3 day service (outside USA will be extra)
PayPal and insurance available.
Email for details if interested.
beattygw@sbcglobal.net
#15
02-13-2011, 07:22 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
A symptom is sluggish. Think of the rods having to trudge through excess oil in the bottom end and how it would slow it down. If you pull the freeze plug in the bottom of the crank and get more than 6oz, it's sumping. If you didn't remove the oil pump then no need to replace the o-ring in the back. However, there are two o-rings in the oil passages that press against the plate that should be replaced.
like a scalded cat then the o-rings that were in there are probably doing ok. I hate to re-open it just to check if the 0-rings are ok....You know when you aren't sure if you did something. well i didn't replace them i know that for sure but i know i didn't see any extra o-rings on the gownd, or the bottom of the cam chest....Damn now i am kicking myself....
#16
02-13-2011, 07:34 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#17
02-14-2011, 11:48 AM
I didn't mess with the oil pump so i left the oil pump o-ring that was in there... i didn't remove it so i figured i would just leave well enough alone...
The other thing that i didn't want to do was go throught the top for the push rods in case i wanted to change the cams again so i bit the bullet and the the quick install... I figured if i had to go back in i would not have to take the tank and top off again...Plus when i took the tank off i looked at the rocker box bolts and wasn't sure i wanted to tackle that....
#18
02-14-2011, 12:09 PM
Just to clarify:
1. there is no oring between the oil pump and cam plate on the '07 hydraulic tensioner/roller chain cam plate setup.
2. the two orings at the cam plate dowels are not the o-rings that, if pinched, would cause sumping but not a bad idea to replace them. Unless they have hardened, lost or nicked; don't worry about replacing them. I have changed cams multiple times and used the same orings.
3. the o-ring that can cause sumping if pinched or installed wrong, is the o-ring that seals the "neck" of the oil pump in the crankcase scavenge port. The '07 o-ring is a viton oring and it is the same oring as the oring that seals the top of the pushrod tube in the recess in the cylinder head; yellow in color.
4. another cause of sumping is improper oil pump alignment which was not mentioned. You can use alignment pins or the "rotate the crank while slowly tightening the fastners" method.
You can pull the inner cam bearings with a blind hole puller free from Auto Zone as suggested in a previous post. Using the old cams to install the inner cam bearings in place also works. Put the bearings in the freezer over night, slip them on the cam journal with toms assembly lube and tap them in taking care that they go in straight. Install with numbers facing out; the backside has tapered shoulders that help guide the bearing into the pocket. There is a shelf at the rear of the bearing recess that will stop them so no worries about installing them to the proper depth. Once installed, stick a finger in the bearing and check to see that all the rollers are loose and not in a bind.
1. there is no oring between the oil pump and cam plate on the '07 hydraulic tensioner/roller chain cam plate setup.
2. the two orings at the cam plate dowels are not the o-rings that, if pinched, would cause sumping but not a bad idea to replace them. Unless they have hardened, lost or nicked; don't worry about replacing them. I have changed cams multiple times and used the same orings.
3. the o-ring that can cause sumping if pinched or installed wrong, is the o-ring that seals the "neck" of the oil pump in the crankcase scavenge port. The '07 o-ring is a viton oring and it is the same oring as the oring that seals the top of the pushrod tube in the recess in the cylinder head; yellow in color.
4. another cause of sumping is improper oil pump alignment which was not mentioned. You can use alignment pins or the "rotate the crank while slowly tightening the fastners" method.
You can pull the inner cam bearings with a blind hole puller free from Auto Zone as suggested in a previous post. Using the old cams to install the inner cam bearings in place also works. Put the bearings in the freezer over night, slip them on the cam journal with toms assembly lube and tap them in taking care that they go in straight. Install with numbers facing out; the backside has tapered shoulders that help guide the bearing into the pocket. There is a shelf at the rear of the bearing recess that will stop them so no worries about installing them to the proper depth. Once installed, stick a finger in the bearing and check to see that all the rollers are loose and not in a bind.
#19
02-14-2011, 04:26 PM
Just to clarify:
1. there is no oring between the oil pump and cam plate on the '07 hydraulic tensioner/roller chain cam plate setup.
2. the two orings at the cam plate dowels are not the o-rings that, if pinched, would cause sumping but not a bad idea to replace them. Unless they have hardened, lost or nicked; don't worry about replacing them. I have changed cams multiple times and used the same orings.
3. the o-ring that can cause sumping if pinched or installed wrong, is the o-ring that seals the "neck" of the oil pump in the crankcase scavenge port. The '07 o-ring is a viton oring and it is the same oring as the oring that seals the top of the pushrod tube in the recess in the cylinder head; yellow in color.
4. another cause of sumping is improper oil pump alignment which was not mentioned. You can use alignment pins or the "rotate the crank while slowly tightening the fastners" method.
You can pull the inner cam bearings with a blind hole puller free from Auto Zone as suggested in a previous post. Using the old cams to install the inner cam bearings in place also works. Put the bearings in the freezer over night, slip them on the cam journal with toms assembly lube and tap them in taking care that they go in straight. Install with numbers facing out; the backside has tapered shoulders that help guide the bearing into the pocket. There is a shelf at the rear of the bearing recess that will stop them so no worries about installing them to the proper depth. Once installed, stick a finger in the bearing and check to see that all the rollers are loose and not in a bind.
1. there is no oring between the oil pump and cam plate on the '07 hydraulic tensioner/roller chain cam plate setup.
2. the two orings at the cam plate dowels are not the o-rings that, if pinched, would cause sumping but not a bad idea to replace them. Unless they have hardened, lost or nicked; don't worry about replacing them. I have changed cams multiple times and used the same orings.
3. the o-ring that can cause sumping if pinched or installed wrong, is the o-ring that seals the "neck" of the oil pump in the crankcase scavenge port. The '07 o-ring is a viton oring and it is the same oring as the oring that seals the top of the pushrod tube in the recess in the cylinder head; yellow in color.
4. another cause of sumping is improper oil pump alignment which was not mentioned. You can use alignment pins or the "rotate the crank while slowly tightening the fastners" method.
You can pull the inner cam bearings with a blind hole puller free from Auto Zone as suggested in a previous post. Using the old cams to install the inner cam bearings in place also works. Put the bearings in the freezer over night, slip them on the cam journal with toms assembly lube and tap them in taking care that they go in straight. Install with numbers facing out; the backside has tapered shoulders that help guide the bearing into the pocket. There is a shelf at the rear of the bearing recess that will stop them so no worries about installing them to the proper depth. Once installed, stick a finger in the bearing and check to see that all the rollers are loose and not in a bind.
#20
02-14-2011, 04:42 PM
If they do not seal well, where will the oil go if leakage occurs? I thought these were a source for sumping if absent or not seated properly.