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M&M giving me fits

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  #11  
Old 02-06-2011, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by twistedcherokee
I don't have the money for the scanner or take it to the dealer to get diagnosed. I will try the method to get any codes, the only time I get the CEL on is when I move the TPS to far either way. I may have to pull the injectors & send them in, hope that they are not bad, just put them in last year. I still have the other injectors, so maybe I can send in all of them. I am going to try to make some adapters for my fuel lines so I can check my fuel pressure, maybe it will show that the regulator is stuck causing high fuel pressure. To bad Snap On doesn't make a scanner to check the system out. A HD Scannalizer is on my wish list, but about the time I get one I will upgrade to a newer model & it won't work on it. Since I am in the mountains I don't want to go to carbs, I know you can get them to run ok, but I lie FI. Thanks for the input, sometimes you can get to focused on something that you can miss the simple things, or not realize that there is something that you don't know.

Toby
It's uncommon for injectors to go bad. I think you should focus on a different area. Good luck.
 
  #12  
Old 02-06-2011, 01:03 PM
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How about the fuel pressure regulator? If it's malfunctioning,it could cause the rich condition.
 
  #13  
Old 02-06-2011, 01:22 PM
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The service manual gives you the procedure for reading codes by cycling your ignition switch on & off, you don't have to plug into the scan port. I've done it on both a 99 RKC & a 2000 Ultra, you get the same light pulses through your console engine light.
 
  #14  
Old 02-06-2011, 01:30 PM
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I would check for trouble codes first. You do not need a scanalyzer or jumpers. You can pull the codes from the check engine light. The methid to doi that is in your service manual, or you can loo at:
http://watamix.com/harley/

Scroll down to "How to Determine Trouble Codes Stored by the ECM for EFI-Equipped FLT's".

The service manual provides good diagnostic guides. To the point of your question, I would think you either do not have the TPS set correctly, the ECM is going bad, or you have a fuel pressure problem.
 
  #15  
Old 02-13-2011, 11:25 AM
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Well the weather was great here in Co. yesterday & I did not get to work on the bike. But we did take our grand daughter up to the wolf reserve in Divide. Great day, did not miss working on the bike at all. Now to go out & see if there are any codes & put the crank sensor in & see how it does. I am also going to look at the fuel pressure regulator & am going to see if I can get some fittings to check fuel pressure. Wish me luck.

Toby
 
  #16  
Old 02-13-2011, 06:54 PM
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I pulled the codes, only thing in there is the TPS which is understandable. I have moved it to the extreme that the CEL came on. I did change the crank position sensor, it does run without flooding, but it seems to not want the rear cyl to run. At first I thought here we go again, it was just last year when I replaced the injectors due to the rear cyl injector leaking. But at that time it made no difference when I sprayed fuel into that part of the throttle body until I unplugged the injector, then it smoothed out. Now I can spray fuel on the rear section of the throttle body & it will smooth out & the injector is still plugged in, but other than that, it doesn't want to idle & it spits & sputters with some backfiring out the throttle body. Then I also noticed that the radio won't turn on, the light works, checked my grounds (since I just got done painting my inner fairing) and all other wires. To top it off, the fuel pressure adapter seems to be no longer available & since I have a full tank of fuel I decided to wait untill I feel like draining the tank so I can find a fitting.

Toby
 
  #17  
Old 02-26-2011, 11:25 AM
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Got my adapter for the fuel pressure gauge. Worked great, will try to get a pic up soon. Had 43 psi & it didn't change when I gave the throttle a snap. I did a dead head test which involves pinching the return line shut for a spilt second, raised up to 90, so the fuel pump & lines inside the tank are fine. I also did it while it was running to see if maybe it was to close to the lower pressure and that is why the rear cyl isn't firing, but it made no difference. Looks like I am going to loosen the tank & try to get it up out of the way to get my fat hands in there to get the injectors out & swap them. If it changes to the front cyl, it's the injector. If it stays at the rear cyl, it's in the connector or back to the ECU to include the ECU. One step at a time. I may go a head & change out the cam sensor while I am at it, it would be easier than getting to the injectors & I need to check my cam chain tensioners also. Wish I had more time when I have money & more money when I have the time.

Toby
 
  #18  
Old 02-26-2011, 02:49 PM
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Sounds like you are getting close. Good luck.
 
  #19  
Old 02-26-2011, 07:41 PM
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Thanks I sure hope so, been some great riding weather around here since it has been down. If I can get it running good I will forget about the radio not working until later.

Toby
 
  #20  
Old 03-05-2011, 06:03 PM
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Got my noid light on the injector connector, flashing away like it is supposed to do. So the wiring should be ok. Went ahead & pulled the intake all the way out, I need to change the throttle cables out since they are fraying the plastic since I did the inner fairing. Also because & don't have a good set of snap ring pliers here at the house. Just put those injectors in this last year, good thing I still have the old ones & wrote bad on the bad one. I may send them in to get checked just because they are out & it would be a lot easier than putting them back in just to find out that the other one went bad sitting on my tool box at work. Maybe when I get the injectors out it will have a plugged screen (hope). We have had some great weather & wish it was running.

Toby
 


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