When it gets warmer in my garage I'm planning to install an H-D oil cooler (#26155-11) and to replace the air temp. gauge with an H-D oil temp. gauge (75265-04A) on my 2011 FLHTCU. Would appreciate any tips, tricks or precationary notes that will make this project go smoothly. One thing I already plan to change is running the oil temp. gauge wiring under the tank for a cleaner look instead of strapping it to the frame down tube per the H-D instructions.

 

You might want to check out this thread:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...y-project.html

I like what he did with the oil lines.

 

I put the H/D cooler on mine, and now I wish I would have put the ultra cool oil cooler on. Check it out, it comes with an electric fan that is controlled by a t/stat and so is a by-pass for when it is too cool outside. Has everything you need with it, costs about the same but that fan would have been so nice when I was stuck in traffic this past August in Oklahoma. Sat there watching my oil temp go up, and the pressure go down.
Also, I did the in dash temp gauge at the same time. Just after, I saw one from Dennis Kirk that I would rather have. Part #740-853 or #740-854 silver or black. Take a look at those and compare to the H/D one. The H/D one is ok, but there is no consistency with the way the #'s are on the H/D gauge. The D/K one you can distinguish what temp you are at because it is broken up into even portions.
When you do put the gauge in, two things to remember. 1; before you close the outer fairing back up, get the area you are working in dark, even throw a tarp over your head, turn on the ignition so the gauges light up, and make sure the gauge is centered in the opening. If it is not, you will always be looking at a sliver of light coming out by the rim of the gauge. I am a perfectionist and this drove me nuts. 2; switch the bulb from the stock ambient temp gauge out with the oil temp gauge. It was a good thing that I had to adjust the gauge to get rid of that sliver of light, because the shade of the bulb was just slightly off, and that bothered me too. Or, depending on what year you have, and if all the gauge lights are replacable, get some LED's and do those while your in there.
Good luck!!!

 

got the ultra oil cooler on my bike great product no more heat issues in stop and go traffic.

 

Just an FYI. The temp guage #'s noted above are jpcycle numbers.
Has anyone installed one?

 

You'll likely find the HD cooler fine, although Ultra-Good makes good points about escalating temps when stationary in hot summer traffic. My oil temps have never exceeded 230° and that high only rarely in four summers in S. LA.

If you feel you need fans, one option (cheaper than Ultra Fan) is to buy and install two from Big Sky Fans. His are rated IP-55, waterproof and dustproof. I received two last week that I'll be installing them in the next few months, although there's no big hurry in this weather. I have had fans installed on the HD cooler in the past and they do help, although previous attempts were with non-waterproof computer fans and they didn't hold up in that hostile environment (dirty, wet, and hot). They slowed the accent of oil temps enough to be effective, IMO, but I don't think any cooler or fan combo will stop it if you idle long enough in hot weather. We'll see how well these last.

Now, about tips on the install process: First, make sure you have a 7/16" Allen socket (or facsimile) for your ratchet, as you'll need one for installing the oil-filter adapter. These are hard-to-find, but some have taken a long bolt with 7/16" head and locked two nuts on the end. That should work well enough, as the torque value is not high.

Running the wire(s) for the gauge under the tank is a good idea. I used a coat-hanger wire to pull it (one wire for me) through, but if you have an '08 or later with no cross-over tube I would just pull the tank, as it is easy enough to do. That way you can channel the wire properly with wire-ties where it won't get pinched or otherwise traumatized. You only need to run the signal wire from the sender under the tank, as the ground wire can be connected to any solid ground on the frame, as there are plenty of ground connectors already in place. My instructions specified to run it all the way to the gauge, but I don't see the need. Both jobs are relatively easy, but getting the old ATG out and the new OTG in takes a bit of shoe-horning, as the inside mounting screw is hard to access.

 

when installing your oil guage, take out the air temp quage, pull your oil guage wires through the hole and wire up your new guage. It is a lot easier to wire in you hand than it is while it is installed in fairing.