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Brake Rotor Bolts - HOLY CRAP!

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  #11  
Old 01-31-2011, 07:17 PM
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If you have a Lowe's around you. their torx bits are lifetime warranty. Get theirs and have at it.
 
  #12  
Old 01-31-2011, 07:33 PM
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They're drowning in puddles of WD40 right now (the wheel is laying flat, so that's easy) and I'll give it a try tomorrow.
 
  #13  
Old 01-31-2011, 07:39 PM
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gotta go with the heat, the loktite won't budge till ya put some heat on it. I couldn't budge mine till I used my MAPP gas torch on the bolts for a few seconds, then they came right out.
 
  #14  
Old 01-31-2011, 08:02 PM
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Why don't you just drill the heads off? You said that you're not worried about the rim.
 
  #15  
Old 01-31-2011, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by DR. V-TWIN
heat!
Heat'll do it!
 
  #16  
Old 01-31-2011, 08:10 PM
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The bolts are in with red loctite (or the equivalent). I just heated the bolt head with a torch for a few seconds and they came right out. I did the same thing you did, broke a bit, tried the impact, etc. If you just heat the head, you will not damage the rotors.
 
  #17  
Old 01-31-2011, 08:16 PM
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I had to tap on the plug in the oil pan with a ball pin hammer when installing the oil temp sensor, as I broke off the first 5/16" allen with a 3/8 drive ratchet. I then tapped the plug face several times, got another bit, and tried again. It broke free with a BIG BANG! It turned out that it had RED loctite on it also.....

Wish I had tried heat, didn't think it would have loctite.....
 
  #18  
Old 01-31-2011, 08:18 PM
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Some cuts & pastes of a Google search;

Use a handheld impact wrench or an air-powered impact. A sharp rotational force can break the bonds of the higher strength Loctite.

Apply heat to the bolt's head with a propane torch. The red and green strength Loctite will need some type of heat applied, above 400 degrees Fahrenheit, in order to melt the cured sealant. A wrench or impact can be used immediately while the bolt is still hot.

Use a high wattage soldering iron for smaller screws and bolts. Touch the tip of the soldering iron to the head of the screw and allow the heat to work into the area. Immediately remove the screw while still hot.
 
  #19  
Old 01-31-2011, 08:53 PM
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If you are using a torx that you turn with a ratchet (not a screwdriver handle type) place the torx socket (tip) with out the handle in the screw head and hit it a couple of times with a ball peen hammer, Heat is not the answer neither is wd-40. Aluminum and steel have a bad habit of seizing together, a sharp blow with a hammer WILL allow them to break loose real easy. This is a trick I learned back in the 70's working on my XR75 Honda. Getting them screws out were a real tough nut to crack until somebody showed me this little trick. By the way the screws are installed with loctite blue, not red. This trick will work on all the troublesome screws including those in the derby cover, Once you strip the heads off you have no choice but to drill the head off of the screw.
 
  #20  
Old 02-01-2011, 02:25 AM
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like robbie52 mentioned, a heat gun along with an impact driver, but don't use the hong kong p.o.s. wrenches from harbor freight. mac, matco, snap on, etc, and wd-40 is not a good penetrating oil. use power blaster or liquid wrench, it will soak in better and help with the job much better than wd-40. wd-40 is not much more than clean kerosene with some alcohol in it to facilitate removing moisture. that's how the name wd-40 came to be, WD=water displacement, 40=fortieth formula.
 


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