Changing the Fork Oil Using the ICLICK Method?
#22
I am not sure why fight the Phillips drain screw on the forks. I submit what I did. Buy new allen bolt type drain plugs. I have used a vise grip or channel locks on the the head of the phillip screw to get it loose it has a large head on it and is very easy to get a grip on it does not matter to mark it up as not going to re use it.
#24
exactly what he said. same issue for me. 15 wt is to heavy. you can feel every line in road. i personally will go back to stock weight so the forks are more responsive. thin oil flows for freely through the dampner rods. its the springs that hold your bike up not the oil. oil is for dampening. Many people dont understand how suspension operates. my buddy had his own suspension buisness for awhile. plus he is at the top of the food chain in professional motox racing and suspension is everything in that sport so when he talks i listen.
#27
I believe it will be less than 15W with a 50/50 blend..
Here is a table for redline shock oils..
http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/ima..._Mix_Chart.pdf
Add 50/50 gets you about 13.3
Last edited by Max Headflow; 05-03-2015 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Add
#30
Just remember you will leave some oil in the forks and residual on the drain pan so when you measure to put in what you take out consider that. If you increase the height of oil in the fork by even 1/2 cm you will significantly stiffen the fork, lower will soften it. If you are thorough and careful the iclick method is fine. If it is time to service your forks get a service manual and do it right. The fork level tool is cheap. The process is significantly different than just pouring a fixed amount of oil in the forks. The service interval is 50K now I think. I do it either 20 or 25K as it is pretty nasty by then. Clean all of the components and install new seals. Button it up, add the starting amount of oil and use the tool to set the height of the oil. Reassemble. Takes about 1 hour with the right tools.
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08-31-2014 10:47 AM