15W is good, I have BelRay in mine, add 1/2 the oil put cap on and pump the forks then add the other half. I tried putting it all in at once with the bike on a jack, NFG wouldn't hold it, made a mess and had to start over.

 

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...il-change.html

 

Thanks for throwing up the link to ICLICK's thread on his fork oil change technique. For those looking... ICLICK's instructions are on page #3 of the thread, post #23. Here is his narative "cut & paste" from ICLICK's thread:

Well, I didn't wait 'til tomorrow and did the fork-oil change earlier this evening. It took me about an hour to do the job using the top-fill method. It was mostly a piece of cake, and here's the blow by blow doing one side at a time:

1. Remove ignition switch and the two screws holding the inner-fairing cap. Lifting the cap out of the way gives access to the fork top plug. I tried a 36mm socket but there wasn't room, same for a crescent, but the 36mm wrench in the tool kit was the solution. The plug is not on tight and removal is easy.

2. I used a ½" clear plastic tube cut to about 10" in length and inserted a small funnel on one end and stuck the other end into the fork top. It was a tight fit but worked. I wire-tied the funnel to the handlebars to keep it from slipping. Put a plastic bag on the tank to protect it from fluid that might spill out of the funnel.

3. Once the top plug is removed the vacuum is released, so draining should be no problem. It indeed wasn't once the bottom drain plug was removed, and that was the biggest problem of the whole job. Those damn Phillips screws were in very tight and I almost couldn't get them off. Don't even try to remove them with a Phillips screwdriver, but instead get a #3 Phillips bit and use a 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet, putting heavy pressure on the screw while you turn it. It was close, but I got both of them without stripping the head after rapping moderately with an impact screwdriver (not an impact wrench).

3. Once this screw is out the fluid begins to drain. My right side came out slowly at first until I used a toothpick to loosen some gunk that partially plugged the hole. There is no need to pump the forks to release all the oil, as in time (about 5 min.) the oil completely drains, all 10.8 oz. of it. It is a black, smelly fluid that doesn't resemble any hydraulic or other oil I've ever encountered. It looks like it has moly or graphite in it. Once the old fluid is out, reinstall the screw, but there's no need to tighten it as much as was done at the factory. The manual says 78-96 inch-pounds.

4. I filled with SE Heavy (not the Extra Heavy variety), which is reportedly 15w (stock is 10w). Note that RK's require 11.1 oz., while EG's are 10.8 oz. Fill slowly about 2-3 oz. at a time, then pump the forks each time to force the oil past the damping valve. After about 3-4 pumps you start hearing a hollow sucking noise, which suggested to me that it had cleared the valve. RK's may not need to do this step-by-step pumping approach since they don't have the damper valve installed. That process took maybe 10 min. for each side.

5. Finally, replace the top plug, do the other side as above, then replace the inner-fairing cap and ignition switch.

This is definitely the way to change the fork oil on these bikes, IMO, and I may do this job every 10k, certainly not more than every 20k. As I said, it took about an hour, but next time I think I could do it in 45 min. now that I know the routine. Thanks to all who encouraged me to try this method.

A ride revealed a slightly firmer feel to the front-end with the SE fluid, but it is not harsh. Corners felt very secure, but my 10-mile ride didn't give it a good test for bottoming, etc. It felt taut and secure, however, and these early results are positive.

 

I'm happy with the straight SE Heavy, but next time (very soon) I think I'm going to try the mix. Dawg uses it so it can't be a bad idea.

 

Never mind, the link's already been posted.

 

I put a couple of oz. at a time followed by a few pumps, but with the tube inserted there was no need to re-attach the cap. It gurgles when you pump the forks and the tone changes when all is pushed into the fork, about 4-5 pumps IIRC.

 

I have changed my fork oil 4 times using Iclick method it works great. Only thing
I would add is use a hose smaller than the fork opening so air can escape
also if you jack the wheel up off of the floor the oil will flow in without the pumping

 

Depending upon the specific model you own, there can be quite a bit of a difference in how long it takes to change out the front fork oil. Most methods involve getting to the fork caps on the top of the forks. Once you have easy access to the caps, you unscrew or loosen them, followed by removing the drain screw at the bottom of the forks and the old oil just flows out. Once the old oil drains out you just add the new oil by pouring it in at the top of the forks. Some of the pre 2006 forks have cartridges in one side. They call for a slightly different approach. Someone mentioned about a device that some of the dealers use that does not involve stripping off parts to change the front fork oil. Many of us have actually fabricated such a tool, although I have never seen or heard of a dealer using it. Total time to remove and fill front forks is about 15 minutes, tops. It involves pulling a vacumn at the drain plug and sucking the old oil out. Once a vacumn has been reached (at about 20-25 inches) and the old oil evacuated, you close your petcock in order to hold your vacumn. You then change to another hose which is connected to a reservoir which contains the predetermine amount of new oil, release the vacumn you have pulled and the new oil is magically sucked up into the forks. You then just put in your drain plug screw and carry out your day. This homemade device is nothing more than a 12" stick of 1/4" copper tubing. In the middle you put a shut off or petcock, as some would call it. I use a MityVac to pull a vacumn. Again, I have never seen a dealer use one. I would guess that due to the fact it only takes 15 minutes to do a refill, they would not accumulate much in the way of billable shop hours if they used such a device. I am just speculating here. You can actually make the device I have described for about $10.00 or so. The parts are readily available at Lowes or any plumbing shop which carries copper, fittings and plastic tubing. You can buy a MityVac at Autozone for about $35.00 or less.

 

Guys,
Next project on my 2011 Tri-Glide will be chrome lowers and cowbells along with stainless hardware. What about Belray 20wt as I still have some on the shelf? In all fairness this oil worked excellent on my 39mm FXLR front end, but she also had the Racetech gold rebound valves installed in the lower legs.

 

you can mix the 20w 50:50 with 10w and get 15W