Nothing is wrong with the oil I use I use syn 3 or formula plus...My point is the clutch is not in an oil bath...The oil in your primary is more for the chain than it is for the clutch plates...Clutch plates can survive without oil.

 

Not for any length of time in a wet clutch application.

 

Any decent oil will work. I've been usin' Castrol 20/50 in the primary on my FXR for 25 years, & my FLTR for 3 years, but that's because it's cheap & I have it around. The only thing the primary oil does is lube the chain & allow the clutch to slip when it's disengaged. No big wear points or major heat issues.

 

Normal. I can barely move any of my big twins when they're in gear with clutch in. A properly adjusted clutch is closer to the snug side, rather than the loose side. All of mine take a leap if I try to crank on a cold morning in gear with no brakes.

Manual says start in neutral, clutch in, and front brake engaged. Always worked for me.

Use any primary lube you want as long as it doesn't have friction modifiers. Even butter would work.

 

Sure they can... open primary clutches do fine...Automotive clutches run dry plates they are all made of basically the same materials.

 

Ok, fine. The fact remains that the clutch was bathed in oil the last time the bike was run. Unless it sat for years the clutch still has oil in it. It's designed to open less than a dry clutch, slip to allow shifting, & it's NOT dry after sitting a couple of days (or weeks). The O.P.'s problem is NOT a dry clutch, it's cold oil. He's even replied that he started the bike, ran it, & it's fine. Go ahead & believe that your clutch is dry after you shut the bike down. I don't care. (Mine still have oil in 'em)

 

I didn't say that dry plates were his problem...I didn't say that the clutch was dry after you shut the bike down...I was saying that the plates are not immersed in oil like you implied by saying that they are in an oil bath...I am very familiar with how the clutch works.