I would think so.

 

Rick, i might be inclinded to let you use my bearing Beatty tool pm me and well discuss it. also don't worry about using that cam locking tool, just have a buddy hold the rear break pedal down, works like a charm and does not cost anything.

 

Oops didn't read the last few posts, man your quick with the credit card! Looks like you got all the tools you need now! The cam bolts are not on that tight, I think your footboard is torqued tighter, make sure your using blue lockright in everything and get your self a torque wrench, if you don't have one check out the pawn shops you can usually find a nice snap on or Mac for 80 bucks

 

garcou) i have a torque wrench yea i already bought all the tools thank for the offer very much appreciated. but even if i use them one or two times i have em here so if anyone needs them i will offer it to them as u did me. sinse i have been on this forum all i meet is great people like u and james willing to help someone or give advice. i wish it was like that in the real world. i wanna take the time to thank u and james and everyone who has helped me here. now i feel pretty confident doing this. i never would have attempted this if not been for this forum. thank u all very much and i will let everyone here about the install and the performance when iam done. no dynos just going to do the job remap and ride.
Rick

 

You'll be smiling like a school girl Rick the first time ya take it out, I suggest some black label society "Stillborn" or some Five Finger Death punch "War is the answer" or "Burn it down" for your maiden voyage tunes!

 

Rick, you need both inch/lbs and ft/lbs torque wrenches. If you were a little closer, I'd have been more than happy to give you a hand. This is one job that anyone with a little mechanical aptitude can easily handle. I'm a cheap S.O.B. at heart, and anytime I can save a couple of bucks, or help a friend do the same, I'm all over it. Plus, these motors are very pleasant to work on, most everything is easily accessible. What could be more enjoyable that that, unless it's actually riding?

I installed a new set of lifters in my bike when I swapped cams last winter, but that was only because a set fell into my lap for next to nothing. The set I pulled out looks like new with 30K miles on them, so I'll just keep them for future use. The roller lifters don't develop wear patterns like flat tapped lifters, so they don't need to be replaced when you do a cam swap.

 

Jamie, thanks again for all you do for the forum, it's greatly appreciated.
This was an interesting comparison, and I'm sure more than a few folks were surprised by the results.

 

Hey Boog, I guess 2k miles is a little far to lend a hand Ha.. Anyways, the bike goes in today for the build and I'm wondering about lifters. I have a new set of 99b's to install but the bike only has 6k miles on it. I 'spose I can have shop check out the lifters when a part but it'd be nice to apply the lifter $ to the build...

 

I'm not sure if this is a dumb question, but are these dyno runs done without consideration to fuel economy, and what A/F ratios are being achieved here. Are the A/F SET TO give max numbers without thought towards economy. Thanks Jamie for the work you do here on this forum.

 

Some guy with a spare set of 255's.

lp