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S&S 106 54H Build Question 07 Touring

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  #11  
Old 12-29-2010 | 02:36 PM
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Thanks everyone. Now yall got me thinking that I building a PUNK build. ehhehehe
 
  #12  
Old 12-29-2010 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Dru
Thanks everyone. Now yall got me thinking that I building a PUNK build. ehhehehe
It's just not a good idea to toss **** into a case and pray it runs worth a damn.
A proven kit will take your further and make you happier.
 
  #13  
Old 12-29-2010 | 04:23 PM
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CORRECT -- just check the run0ut before you start building
Originally Posted by BadPiggy
Leave the crank alone.
If/when it scissors, build the motor to a 120".
 
  #14  
Old 12-29-2010 | 04:32 PM
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Your plan is fine, it's a good package. If you want to save some $$ pass on the porting; all you really need on those head for the 54 cams is measure/match chamber volume (84.5ccs), minor bowl blending, new guide seals, singh grooves, a good competition valve job. Should be able to get all that done for about half the cost of a full pro-street port job.

Like someone else advised, you don't need the SE cam plate; the OEM plate works just fine. New lifters; the OEM "B" lifters are good but is you have the coin, take a look at the new Woods directional lifter; very precision piece of hardware.

At 190+psi, compression releases would be nice; they will extend starter and battery life.

You didn't mention two of the most important elements of the build; exhaust and fuel management. With a good tune, I have seen dyno charts of similar builds in the 110HP/120TQ range.

Hate to mention it but the '07 model year had a higher incidence of crank failures than later years. You are looking at $800-$100 to have the crank T/B/W and another $250-$300 for the Timken conversion. It's a crap shoot but like others have said, build it, run it and if/when the crank goes south, have the bottom end built up then. Who knows, you may dodge that bullet for a season or two.

It goes without saying that you should check crank runout now and if runout is .003", say as much as .005", it might be a good idea to go ahead and address the crank. However, if runout is tight, like .0015"-.0002", take a chance and see what happens. At least you will have a baseline to measure against as you get miles on the new build. JMHO.
 
  #15  
Old 12-29-2010 | 05:30 PM
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Thanks djl,

My heads are already ported to match the 54h cams.

Thunder headers 2-1 and tuned with Zippers Thunder-max Autotuner.

I will see what the builder recommends about the crank when he measures the runout. It just seems like good (expensive) insurance to have.

Already got the cam plate. Someone also recommended Rocker Arm Supports.

Does anyone know where I can order the woods lifters online?
 
  #16  
Old 12-29-2010 | 09:58 PM
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call bob woods directly, he will help you out, or i think you should be able to get them from one of the sponsors of this forum.
 
  #17  
Old 12-29-2010 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Dru
Thanks djl,

My heads are already ported to match the 54h cams.

Thunder headers 2-1 and tuned with Zippers Thunder-max Autotuner.

I will see what the builder recommends about the crank when he measures the runout. It just seems like good (expensive) insurance to have.

Already got the cam plate. Someone also recommended Rocker Arm Supports.

Does anyone know where I can order the woods lifters online?
Sounds good. You didn't say but assume that your builder will install .030" Cometic MLS head gasket? The only other suggestion I have is singh groove the heads; they work, very simple to do.

http://www.woodcarbs.com/
 

Last edited by djl; 12-29-2010 at 10:20 PM.
  #18  
Old 12-29-2010 | 10:31 PM
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You'll most likely wanna put a heavier clutch spring in it too. When you roll onto it pretty hard and get up to about 90 or 95 in high gear it'll probably slip on ya.
 
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