Another thing to think about: if you purchase the 2010 you have already lost 1 yr of warrenty so if you are thinking about extending it you will be up there the same as the 2011 price and you will have an extra year before forking out the extra money to extend it. But if you are not planning on purchasing the extended warrenty it won't matter. Just a thought. Also on the 2011 bikes my dealer gave me $1000 in accessories and 20% off parts and labor, not sure if you will get the same deal on used bike. Like the others have stated work that dealer to your advantage.

 

What is this riding season you speak of ???
It's the 1st day of winter and it's gonna be 74 degrees here today. sorry I just had to jab you a little.

 

Up here, they still have 2010 holdover FLHTK's. I just paid less than that for one in late august.

 

I agree with those suggesting $21,500... it's the best time of year to buy a bike. They want to get that year end/month end commission and not alot of disposable cash walking thru that door this time of year.

Are you trading in a bike? I get a kick out of the two way street that the dealers use. They won't give you a nickle for your add ons but will factor the add ons in on the bike for sale. Don't let them get away with that.

The last bit of advice I'll give is, if you are financing look at a credit union. Rates are absolutely amazing right now and Eagle financing is the biggest rip off in town.

Hope this helps...Merry Xmas

 

I'm with the group that thinks $21.5 is NOT a good deal - it's $2k over KBB's trade in value for a bike with 1/3 that mileage, and those "upgrades" have no value (you can bet that's what they told the guy who traded it in!), especially if you don't like the sound of the Bassanis or have a need for the "upgraded" audio system (the stock is perfectly fine for most riders).

 

Thanks for all the advise everyone. I do have a trade unless I can sell it out right. It is a 2000 Electra Glide Classic. I will try listing it on here for a while.

I do not plan on financing. I've been saving for a while and I don't want to play that debt game anymore :-(

Scott

 

I agree with the 21.5 as well or getting real close to it. Other than that I would go new.

 

Don't do it!!!! Have a fresh start with a brand new bike of your choice.

 

I would buy new 2011 at that price.Try to get them to come down, I would bet they might.

 

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Here's a way for the dealer to process the deal, stay whole and in turn lower the bikes price to you.

Talk to the F&I Manager and finance the whole bike deal and let them bump the rate as high as they can go.....the higher they go the more the bank will pay them for the booking the loan. So lets say the bank pays them an extra $1000 they drop the sale price $1000 to get the deal closed.

Then you payoff the entire loan on the second or third payment to rid yourself of the debt that you don't want to carry.

The dealer is whole, you made out and the Bank....oh well they got the short end of the stick but that's what they get for allowing the interest rates to get bumped in the first place They don't care about the average guy paying extra above the qualifying rate in fact they encourage it as they can amke a lot more money over time this way. So sometimes they win sometimes they don't that's the loan business played within their rules....