Deluxe Tour-pak Hinges
#82
01-09-2011, 12:18 PM
Part#
#85
01-10-2011, 03:23 AM
I just installed my Premium Tour Pak Hinges this evening. They look great and went in without any problems except as noted below. I paid particular attention to the instructions because of some of the issues discussed here and in another thread such as hole size and the potential for cracking of the lid and/or tour pak base.
Here’s what I found. The instructions say nothing about drilling the existing holes but in my opinion it is necessary to preclude the induction of any unwanted stresses to the tour pak or lid. Another potential source of stress that the instructions say nothing about is the surface finish of the ABS where the screws and backing plates attach. I found some burrs and raised material there that if left could cause some stresses when the hinges are torqued in place.
To eliminate these potential sources of stress I added a few steps to the Harley Davidson instructions furnished with the hinges. And although I didn’t do it on this job (this was my first time and was a learning experience) I’d use a smaller drill bit than the 3/16 called for drilling out the rivets next time. The reason being, if you drill a little too deep and end up going through the ABS, 3/16 is a little too large.
Here’s the changes and additions to the furnished instructions…
Changes:
Steps 4 & 5. Use a 5/32 or 11/64 drill bit in lieu of the specified 3/16 to remove the rivets. (Or use a dremel
as others have suggested).
Add the following steps:
5a. Removed any burrs or raised material, if any, from the inside of the tour pak and the lid around the
mounting holes.
5b. Apply a slight countersink to the inside of each mounting hole.
5c. Test fit the hinges to the lid. Open the hole diameters in the lid to accept the locating studs of the
hinge if necessary. Use a 5/32 to 11/64 drill as required.
5d. Drill the remaining 12 screw holes 11/64 as necessary.
One other thing I did differently than the instructions stated… I did not use loctite or torque any of the screws during the initial installation. What I did do is install all of the fasteners hand tight to make sure everything fit before applying loctite or torquing. Then I removed the fasteners one at a time, applied loctite, reinstalled, and finally, torqued each fastener once they were all reinstalled.
The complete job took a little under two hours. Like I said earlier, this was the first time doing this, and I was looking for any potential problems so I spent a little extra time. I’m sure if I were to do it again it would be more like an hour or less. And like a few others have said, an extra set of hands when installing the lid, although not absolutely necessary, would sure be nice.
Here’s what I found. The instructions say nothing about drilling the existing holes but in my opinion it is necessary to preclude the induction of any unwanted stresses to the tour pak or lid. Another potential source of stress that the instructions say nothing about is the surface finish of the ABS where the screws and backing plates attach. I found some burrs and raised material there that if left could cause some stresses when the hinges are torqued in place.
To eliminate these potential sources of stress I added a few steps to the Harley Davidson instructions furnished with the hinges. And although I didn’t do it on this job (this was my first time and was a learning experience) I’d use a smaller drill bit than the 3/16 called for drilling out the rivets next time. The reason being, if you drill a little too deep and end up going through the ABS, 3/16 is a little too large.
Here’s the changes and additions to the furnished instructions…
Changes:
Steps 4 & 5. Use a 5/32 or 11/64 drill bit in lieu of the specified 3/16 to remove the rivets. (Or use a dremel
as others have suggested).
Add the following steps:
5a. Removed any burrs or raised material, if any, from the inside of the tour pak and the lid around the
mounting holes.
5b. Apply a slight countersink to the inside of each mounting hole.
5c. Test fit the hinges to the lid. Open the hole diameters in the lid to accept the locating studs of the
hinge if necessary. Use a 5/32 to 11/64 drill as required.
5d. Drill the remaining 12 screw holes 11/64 as necessary.
One other thing I did differently than the instructions stated… I did not use loctite or torque any of the screws during the initial installation. What I did do is install all of the fasteners hand tight to make sure everything fit before applying loctite or torquing. Then I removed the fasteners one at a time, applied loctite, reinstalled, and finally, torqued each fastener once they were all reinstalled.
The complete job took a little under two hours. Like I said earlier, this was the first time doing this, and I was looking for any potential problems so I spent a little extra time. I’m sure if I were to do it again it would be more like an hour or less. And like a few others have said, an extra set of hands when installing the lid, although not absolutely necessary, would sure be nice.
Last edited by 2black1s; 01-10-2011 at 03:28 AM.
#86
01-10-2011, 07:45 AM
#88
01-10-2011, 09:44 AM
Tourer
#90
01-12-2011, 07:59 PM
Road Master
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Leesburg, Florida
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One thing not mentioned is the thread-locker and torq spec called for in the instuction sheet. OK, I admit I didn't have any red, but I did have a tube of blue and used that. Be sure you have that thread-locker on hand before starting the project, as the torque on those screws is probably lighter than you might twist them to by hand. It called for 20-25 inch pounds. My torque wrench starts at 25, and I was kinda surprised how light that is. Don't want them so tight as to have the gell coat cracking.