That is a good reason why not to "fix" something unless it is broke. Now it needs fixing again.

 

Like you, I think the right way to install the parts is to drill the holes to ensure the correct size. There seems to be a degree of tolerances with the holes (I suspect because they are created during the molding process, and not drilled afterwards.) - I didn't need to drill the screw holes in mine, others say you have to.

The point I was originally trying to make is, we spend a ton of money on H-D parts and yet Taiwanese instructions come with the parts. Then when something goes wrong with the part, it isn't covered under warranty. It's a good gig for H-D.

 

Having done both - I have to agree with you! Much larger pucker factor on the luggage rack...

 

Good Thread. I quess I'll have to install some myself.

 

I read this post yesterday, and just had to run out to the dealer and buy a set of hinges. While I was there, I looked at a 2011 CVO with the price tag at $41,600. Yup, the Milwaukee metal shop hinges attached. So wrong.

Once the rivets were removed, drilling out the holes with a 3/16" bit worked perfectly. Someone here wanted to know the torque value of the screws. 20-25 in lb (2.5-2.8 nm)

 

yup and did you notice the $35000 Ultra Tri Glide , yea the tin can hinges also , but just think it gives us some more to get before we take our new bike home

 

Well worth the $50 IMO. I did have to drill slightly bigger holes for the hinge guide pins so they would seat flush w/ the tour pak lid. All in all....a worthy mod!!

 

I don't suppose H-D makes them with the skull theme.

 

First mods I did when purchasing my used 2008 RG. When installing the tour-pak those cheap-azz, tin hinges just stood out all the time.

Checked out the Kuryakyn hinges, but their ugly.

 

I did my hinges in Nov. I drilled out the rivets but if I were to do it again I would grind the heads off with a Dremel tool instead of using a drill. Have a look.