Well I am still looking for a remedy for my 09 Ultra - 106 cu in 10.5:1 pistons and 251 cam dripping oil out the air cleaner. Tried the Mystfree from Doherty and I stll get oil on the cam chest after 30 or so miles on the highway. I will admit the last time I wiped the chest clean and went to work over the thirty miles, the K & N Zipper air filter wasn't fresh clean. So that is what I will do tonight.

I talked to the guy at Doherty, real helpful nice guy, and he thinks the oil pump needs aligned. Sounds pretty sure about it. Says I need to drain the crank pan, not like an oil change but a hoizontal plug on the pan, and should not get more than 6 oz from it. If its more, the pump needs alignment.

So the dealer says the pump just bolts up and doesn't really align with anything. They also said a few years back the engine had to be turned over, minus the spark plugs by spinning the back wheel, and that somehow gets things lined up. The Doherty guy says not to use alignment dowels (getting over my head now) and do it the old way.
So is this enough to get some help.
Thanks to all

Firedog -Tulsa OK
09 Ultra Classic Electra Glide 106/251 cams/SEPST/ V&H Power Duals & Monster Ovals/lots of bolt on

 

I had the same problem with my '09 Ultra 103/255 set up. Aligning the oil pump did not help, nor did drilling out the retun lines down to the bottom end (all done as warranty by dealer). Ultimately what stopped the drip/spray was 1) switching to Redline 20-60, and 2) filling only to 3.5 qts at oil changes.

I have 50K on the bike, and the drip/mist problem has pissed me off since 20K. I've brought the bike back many, many times to the dealer, and spoke with the Milwaukee reps as well. They told me in the begining that the problem was filling the oil to spec, but I just couldn't believe something like that. So I went through 2yrs of torture to finally go back to the initial recommendation on the fill level.

The Redline oil also helps, in that it deals with the heat better than the HD/Mobil/Amsoil I tried previously. Helpful here in TX.

 

Take a look at this. It clearly states to add 3.5 quarts rather than 4 at oil change because .5 remains in the engine. Otherwise you will overfill and can suffer from oil carryover.

http://www.box.net/shared/rlu650408k

 

Sifu, looks very familiar, I did the drilling and breather modules a couple months ago. Also went back and changed the umbrellas to what seemed stiffer - from an Evo - and put the gauze back in too.
I do run at about 3.5 qts and have heard others run lower than that but I don't really think starving the motor for lube just to fix the drips makes a lot of sense.

I guess I will check with the local dealer and maybe a couple of indy shops on the alignment. The Doherty guy said he would sit through the whole thing on the phone if I want to do it. I had initally asked him about the Power Vents, thinking I may end up venting to the ground as I have seen here recently, and he said before I buy anything else from them I need to check the amount of oil I get from the drain plug and get or do the alignment

thanks to all again, and anyone knowong about the alignment process, old way or the dowels, chime in please

Firedog -Tulsa OK
09 Ultra Classic Electra Glide 106/251 cams/SEPST/ V&H Power Duals & Monster Ovals/lots of bolt on

 

Actually the older way per the manual was to use the dowels and the new way per the manual (which happens to be the old manual way that many use) is to alternately tighten bolt 1 and 2 while rotating the rear wheel so the pump can center itself. Put bike in 4th gear and take plugs out. Rotate rear tire while snugging the two bolts (#1 and #2) down. You should see oil come out of the center of the shaft while you are spinning the wheel.

 

I helped JonnyD with a cam change last week. We followed the manual when we aligned the oil pump. We tightened the cam plate bolts and left the 4 oil pump bolts loose. We then rotated the rear wheel with the bike in 4th gear to turn the oil pump. We then tightened the oil pump bolts in sequence.

This would be a fairly simple job for you to do although I'm wondering if you would want to check and change the oil pump O-rings. This would require pulling the cam plate and oil pump.

I'm not an expert by any means.

Can anyone else add to this discussion?

EDIT - Dawg IS an expert. Thanks Dawg.

 

Who did the cam work? If it was you, then yes I would consider checking the two oil feed o-rings and the one behind the pump. One could be pinched or something.

 

Change all 3 o rings... set the support plate and torque (watch torque specs, dont torque the dowel ping bolts to tight.. I found out the hard way) all but the oil pump bolts.. take the plugs out, and put the crank nut on the crank shaft and turn the motor over clockwise while alternating on each of the 4 oil pump bolts until snug, then torque. This has worked for me exactly 8 of the times I have done it.

If you have some time, the alignment dowels arent that expensive on ebay. Pick some up! Good luck!

 

Do what the Doherty guy suggested first; you need to know if she is sumping. If sumping, the oring between the oil pump spigot and the crankcase scavenge port could be the wrong oring or cut/pinched. The next step would be to align the oil pump; you pick the method but the manual alignment is as good as any. The alignment is the alignment of the gerotors to the crank pinion. There are two gerotors, both with flat spots that should align to the flat spot on the crank pinion. The pump will self align using the manual method in just a few turns of the rear wheel.

If she's not sumping, you have other problems. Like you, I don't believe running the engine 1/2 quart lower than factory recommendation should be necessary to avoid oil mist collecting in the air cleaner. I have never had the problem but have vented both my bikes to the atmosphere; neither are stock.

 

Ok guys thanks a lot, one more question, I have looked at this a while back and so is the horizontal drain the female (square drive I think) plug in the front side of the pan, on the left maybe?