Quiet Down Detachable Tour Pack? Rattles Like Crazy!
#1
Quiet Down Detachable Tour Pack? Rattles Like Crazy!
I added a TP to my Streetglide and used the Detachable Kit since I already had the Docking Kit on the fender.
It rattles and shakes and drives me nuts when I dont ride with a passenger.
I bought and installed the Aluminum Bushings from member Gilbos and that didnt really help at all.
Any suggestions to quiet it down? (other than removing it)
.
It rattles and shakes and drives me nuts when I dont ride with a passenger.
I bought and installed the Aluminum Bushings from member Gilbos and that didnt really help at all.
Any suggestions to quiet it down? (other than removing it)
.
#2
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...k-rattled.html
Been there, done that. The best solution I've found was to make custom-fit bushings out of industrial bearing plastic aka Delrin. This solves both the design issues with the pre-09 detachable system - poor initial fit and wear.
PM me if I can help. I made a set for my '07 and another set for another forum member, and both are rattle-free with 15k+ miles on them. The other guy's bike got hit while parked and knocked over, which destroyed his tourpack - but the bushings held up and are in use on the replacement.
Been there, done that. The best solution I've found was to make custom-fit bushings out of industrial bearing plastic aka Delrin. This solves both the design issues with the pre-09 detachable system - poor initial fit and wear.
PM me if I can help. I made a set for my '07 and another set for another forum member, and both are rattle-free with 15k+ miles on them. The other guy's bike got hit while parked and knocked over, which destroyed his tourpack - but the bushings held up and are in use on the replacement.
#3
#6
I had a problem with the front mounts for my detach kit, although the '08 kit I had pn my previous bike was great.
The new kit uses a slot in the pressed sides of the section that is fixed to the Pak. I found it wouldn't fit when I used the chrome bushes that came with the kit, and flopped around like crazy when I used the nylon bushes. The instructions weren't that clear as to which bushes should be used.
In the end, I machine up my own bushes using Nylon. I am fortunate that we have our own sealjet machine but I am sure any decent machinist could make something up. I would let them measure up the mount slot though to make sure it is a snug fit
The new kit uses a slot in the pressed sides of the section that is fixed to the Pak. I found it wouldn't fit when I used the chrome bushes that came with the kit, and flopped around like crazy when I used the nylon bushes. The instructions weren't that clear as to which bushes should be used.
In the end, I machine up my own bushes using Nylon. I am fortunate that we have our own sealjet machine but I am sure any decent machinist could make something up. I would let them measure up the mount slot though to make sure it is a snug fit
#7
Solution to rattling Tourpaks used on an EVO Roadking. Should work for many applications.
Parts needed
12” long piece of 3/8” automotive gas line
12” long, 3/8” O.D. wooden dowel
Dielectric grease
Qty. (2) ½” O.D. axle bolts (Ace Hardware or Lowes)
Qty. (2) 5/16” x 3/8” long bolts (head style your choice), material either chrome or stainless steel.
Qty. (2) 5/16” flat washers, chrome or stainless steel.
Qty. (2) ½” I.D. x 5/8” O.D. bronze bushings (Ace Hardware or Lowes)
Front bushings
Insert a wooden dowel into 3/8” gas line and cut gas line and dowel at same time on a band saw. Cut a slit in each piece of rubber to form shape of a “C”. Cut off existing plastic on front mounting bushings. Push a rubber piece onto each front bushing with slit facing forward. Use a flat screwdriver to jam rubber into the bushing at sides to ensure a tight fit. Lube each rubber piece with dielectric grease. Front of tourpak mounting bracket should push onto bushings with difficulty.
Rear bushings
Remove existing bushing mounting hardware. Discard plastic covered bushings and screws. Retain all remaining hardware. Install ½” diameter axle bolts using previously retained hardware. Temporarily install tourpak. Mark outer end of tourpak mount adding 1/16” – 1/8” clearance. Remove tourpak and axle bolts. Cut hex head off ½” diameter axle bolt at mark. Drill and tap end of axle bolts for 5/16-18UNC screw. Install 5/16-18 screw and flat washer in end of each axle bolt. Cut 5/8” O.D. bronze bushings to length to match axle bolts. Slide a bronze bushing onto each axle bolt. Install axle bolt/bushing assembly using existing hardware. Temporarily install tourpak to check fit. Tourpak clamps should be very tight on bushings. If too tight, lightly sand bushings. Lubricate bushings with dielectric grease. Install Tourpak. Fit should be very tight.
Notes:
The front bushings will have to be replaced every now and then. I check mine when doing periodic services or if they look ratty. It’s not a perfect fix but is so cheap and quick I don’t mind. I generally make up a bunch and put them somewhere for when I need them. 2 – 3 changes a year tops.
Carl
Parts needed
12” long piece of 3/8” automotive gas line
12” long, 3/8” O.D. wooden dowel
Dielectric grease
Qty. (2) ½” O.D. axle bolts (Ace Hardware or Lowes)
Qty. (2) 5/16” x 3/8” long bolts (head style your choice), material either chrome or stainless steel.
Qty. (2) 5/16” flat washers, chrome or stainless steel.
Qty. (2) ½” I.D. x 5/8” O.D. bronze bushings (Ace Hardware or Lowes)
Front bushings
Insert a wooden dowel into 3/8” gas line and cut gas line and dowel at same time on a band saw. Cut a slit in each piece of rubber to form shape of a “C”. Cut off existing plastic on front mounting bushings. Push a rubber piece onto each front bushing with slit facing forward. Use a flat screwdriver to jam rubber into the bushing at sides to ensure a tight fit. Lube each rubber piece with dielectric grease. Front of tourpak mounting bracket should push onto bushings with difficulty.
Rear bushings
Remove existing bushing mounting hardware. Discard plastic covered bushings and screws. Retain all remaining hardware. Install ½” diameter axle bolts using previously retained hardware. Temporarily install tourpak. Mark outer end of tourpak mount adding 1/16” – 1/8” clearance. Remove tourpak and axle bolts. Cut hex head off ½” diameter axle bolt at mark. Drill and tap end of axle bolts for 5/16-18UNC screw. Install 5/16-18 screw and flat washer in end of each axle bolt. Cut 5/8” O.D. bronze bushings to length to match axle bolts. Slide a bronze bushing onto each axle bolt. Install axle bolt/bushing assembly using existing hardware. Temporarily install tourpak to check fit. Tourpak clamps should be very tight on bushings. If too tight, lightly sand bushings. Lubricate bushings with dielectric grease. Install Tourpak. Fit should be very tight.
Notes:
The front bushings will have to be replaced every now and then. I check mine when doing periodic services or if they look ratty. It’s not a perfect fix but is so cheap and quick I don’t mind. I generally make up a bunch and put them somewhere for when I need them. 2 – 3 changes a year tops.
Carl
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#8
In response to all.....
The front mounting points are tight and don't rattle at all.
The rear points are what is rattling. The stock plastic bushings were more quiet because it was metal on plastic. The aluminum bushings still have a little slop which makes it louder now that its metal in metal.
The only thing making noise is the rear two points wiggling on the bushings.
Making my own bushings out of hard plastic on the lathe might be my only choice?
The front mounting points are tight and don't rattle at all.
The rear points are what is rattling. The stock plastic bushings were more quiet because it was metal on plastic. The aluminum bushings still have a little slop which makes it louder now that its metal in metal.
The only thing making noise is the rear two points wiggling on the bushings.
Making my own bushings out of hard plastic on the lathe might be my only choice?
#9
In response to all.....
The front mounting points are tight and don't rattle at all.
The rear points are what is rattling. The stock plastic bushings were more quiet because it was metal on plastic. The aluminum bushings still have a little slop which makes it louder now that its metal in metal.
The only thing making noise is the rear two points wiggling on the bushings.
Making my own bushings out of hard plastic on the lathe might be my only choice?
The front mounting points are tight and don't rattle at all.
The rear points are what is rattling. The stock plastic bushings were more quiet because it was metal on plastic. The aluminum bushings still have a little slop which makes it louder now that its metal in metal.
The only thing making noise is the rear two points wiggling on the bushings.
Making my own bushings out of hard plastic on the lathe might be my only choice?
#10
In response to all.....
The front mounting points are tight and don't rattle at all.
The rear points are what is rattling. The stock plastic bushings were more quiet because it was metal on plastic. The aluminum bushings still have a little slop which makes it louder now that its metal in metal.
The only thing making noise is the rear two points wiggling on the bushings.
Making my own bushings out of hard plastic on the lathe might be my only choice?
The front mounting points are tight and don't rattle at all.
The rear points are what is rattling. The stock plastic bushings were more quiet because it was metal on plastic. The aluminum bushings still have a little slop which makes it louder now that its metal in metal.
The only thing making noise is the rear two points wiggling on the bushings.
Making my own bushings out of hard plastic on the lathe might be my only choice?