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Looking at getting an enclosed trailer.

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  #21  
Old 11-27-2010, 06:18 AM
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Thanks for the pic. Thanks even more if you went to all this trouble if for no other reason than to help out on this thread!
 
  #22  
Old 11-27-2010, 07:34 AM
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I would also recomend an 8X16 trailer. There are a few other things that are a MUST in my book! Make sure you get the highest load rated axles you can get! I've replaced far too many axles on this type trailer from too light an axle bending under load, and be sure to get brakes on both axles. Some of the cheaper trailers only have brakes on one axle. Make sure you have either side vents or roof vents to get rid of fumes and to keep the insides of the trailer cooler on hot days. A side door is a must in my book as it's easier to check on the bikes while you are on the road and it can make getting in and out of the trailer easier. Like another poster said, a chromed out, decked out trailer and HD logos makes your trailer a thief magnet, so don't do it. A burgler and fire alarm are a nice addition, but not a necisity.

You must think of the trailer and the tow vehicle as a unit for safety and best economy! For the trailer listed above, a 3/4 ton truck with a big V8, V10, or preferably Diesel power would be the mimimum I'd consider. I prefer a 2 wheel drive pickup for towing as they generally sit lower and ride better, but that's MY opinion. I'd also use a cab high bed cover, or better yet a bed cover with a step up near the back to get as much air off the trailer nose as possible. Getting the trailer as close to the back of the truck as practical also helps get air off the trailer, so no extended hitches! DON"T SKIMP ON THE BRAKE CONTROLLER! That can't be said enough! I use Tekonsha (sp?). They aren't cheap, but then what's your life worth?

Pardon the extra long post, but I thought it might help. I'm a 30 year veteran of the trucking business with 4 million logged miles.
 
  #23  
Old 11-27-2010, 08:07 AM
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I see super nice almost new used trailers for about 25-40% off the cost of new all the time.

No way I would buy new.

Im a cheap SOB.
 
  #24  
Old 11-28-2010, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by VTGlideRider
Maybe this will help as a point of reference...I have a 6x10 Wells Cargo TC Trekker for my 2010 FLHTC. I only store the one bike in it, and while there is plenty of room front to back (maybe about 18-24 inches left between the rear of the bike and the door of the trailer), there would never be enough room width-wise to put a second touring size bike in there. I have enough room to store my small rolling tool box against the side wall and/or move around it to tie it down, but thats about it.

It seems to me you would be tight with a 7 ft width trailer. I would defintely be looking at the 8. Good luck!
I have a 6x10 Haulmark trailer and I can get Two Touring bikes in it very easily by removing the bags. Bags come off in 20 seconds and I stagger the bikes so the fairings arent next to each other.

FYI....


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Old 11-28-2010, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr Cujo
If one is pulling at a hard angle from the track, all the pressure is forced onto the corner of the clip and there is, again my opinion, an unacceptable risk or possibility for accidental failure under load. Either by strap slippage or fastener failure.
Very Interesting Point! I have 8 D Rings evenly spaced out in a 7x10 Trailer (Overkill I Know) but I always wondered if I should have installed E Track on the floor. Your theory above makes perfect sense to me and makes me glad I didnt! Some E Track on the walls would be nice for strapping down lose items though.


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  #26  
Old 11-28-2010, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by jasnusc
Very Interesting Point! I have 8 D Rings evenly spaced out in a 7x10 Trailer (Overkill I Know) but I always wondered if I should have installed E Track on the floor. Your theory above makes perfect sense to me and makes me glad I didnt! Some E Track on the walls would be nice for strapping down lose items though.


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Don't put it on the walls! It works TOO good for someone who is moving from one house to another. I had a buddy (RiP) that put Etrack on the floor AND the walls of his 24'er. Word got out and then everyone in the area that was moving wanted to borrow the thing. LOL
 
  #27  
Old 11-28-2010, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtracin23
don't put it on the walls! It works too good for someone who is moving from one house to another. I had a buddy (rip) that put etrack on the floor and the walls of his 24'er. Word got out and then everyone in the area that was moving wanted to borrow the thing. Lol

lol

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  #28  
Old 11-28-2010, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtracin23
Don't put it on the walls! It works TOO good for someone who is moving from one house to another. I had a buddy (RiP) that put Etrack on the floor AND the walls of his 24'er. Word got out and then everyone in the area that was moving wanted to borrow the thing. LOL

For a nominal fee, (fuel, food, beer, or any friendly combination of the three), I'd drive it about anywhere for my buds, but I HATE moving...
I'll be happy to drive, but I'm not ready to sign up for lumping furniture in and out...


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  #29  
Old 11-28-2010, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jasnusc
Very Interesting Point! I have 8 D Rings evenly spaced out in a 7x10 Trailer (Overkill I Know) but I always wondered if I should have installed E Track on the floor. Your theory above makes perfect sense to me and makes me glad I didnt! Some E Track on the walls would be nice for strapping down lose items though.


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Nah... not overkill-- I call that a fairly good start, with room for more if ya need 'em


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  #30  
Old 11-29-2010, 04:07 AM
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I have a 7' X 12' Low Profile, tandem axle, HAULMARK. Looks great! BUT - The roof leaks and the floor has rotted. They refuse to honor the warranty. I'm stuck with fixing this piece of **** at my expense. DON'T BUY HAULMARK!

With this said - space wise - I've hauled a Classic and Fat Boy staggered with out much problems or concerns. Two Street Glides are a full load and not fun loading or unloading but can be hauled safely if positioned and tied down right .
 


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