With clutch in bike still trying to go.
#11
It's actually inside the primary, you only have to remove the Derby cover, it's a pretty easy adjustment, but you paid them for the service, it's their job to fix. If they can't perform an internal clutch adjustment then they have NO business charging for a service, even an oil change.
I'd still do an adjustment on it just in case they skipped it.
#12
#13
Seriously? Only time this has ever happened to me was on a very hot day when the cable must have expanded enough and it was already misadjusted (my bad).
#14
#15
How to Adjust a Motorcycle Clutch Pack: Motorcycle Repair | eHow.com
Check out the vid, ole Jerry is a hoot and shows you step by step how to do it
Make sure the bike is STONE COLD cooled down (room temperature)
Check out the vid, ole Jerry is a hoot and shows you step by step how to do it
Make sure the bike is STONE COLD cooled down (room temperature)
#17
If you guys understand nothing else about your clutches, understand this...
Adjusting the cable does NOT adjust the clutch. That needs to be said again... Adjusting the cable does NOT adjust the clutch. It only removes or adds the amount of play in the cable. The ONLY way to adjust the clutch is at the clutch adjustment screw behind the derby cover. Then you adjust the cable so there is just 1/16" to 1/8" play at the clutch lever.
If you allow too much play in the cable, you won't be achieving full clutch disengagement. If you don't have sufficient play in the cable, it can bind when turning the handle bar, or it will not fully engage the clutch when the hand lever is released/eased out.
If you desire to change where your clutch engages or disengages at the hand lever, you must adjust the screw behind the derby cover. Although excessive play in the cable may give you the illusion that the clutch engages closer to or further from the handle, you are simply taking up the slack before actual engagement/disengagement of the clutch occurs.
The manuals state that once the adjuster screw has been turned in until slight pressure is felt, then back the adjusting screw 1/2 to 1 full turn out. This is where you fine tune where clutch engagement is felt at the hand lever.
One full turn out, and the clutch hand lever will feel like it engages/disengages closer to the handle. 1/2 turn out and it will be furthest from the handle. 3/4 turn out and it should feel as if the clutch engages near middle of the hand lever pull.
Class is over, who brought the beer?
Adjusting the cable does NOT adjust the clutch. That needs to be said again... Adjusting the cable does NOT adjust the clutch. It only removes or adds the amount of play in the cable. The ONLY way to adjust the clutch is at the clutch adjustment screw behind the derby cover. Then you adjust the cable so there is just 1/16" to 1/8" play at the clutch lever.
If you allow too much play in the cable, you won't be achieving full clutch disengagement. If you don't have sufficient play in the cable, it can bind when turning the handle bar, or it will not fully engage the clutch when the hand lever is released/eased out.
If you desire to change where your clutch engages or disengages at the hand lever, you must adjust the screw behind the derby cover. Although excessive play in the cable may give you the illusion that the clutch engages closer to or further from the handle, you are simply taking up the slack before actual engagement/disengagement of the clutch occurs.
The manuals state that once the adjuster screw has been turned in until slight pressure is felt, then back the adjusting screw 1/2 to 1 full turn out. This is where you fine tune where clutch engagement is felt at the hand lever.
One full turn out, and the clutch hand lever will feel like it engages/disengages closer to the handle. 1/2 turn out and it will be furthest from the handle. 3/4 turn out and it should feel as if the clutch engages near middle of the hand lever pull.
Class is over, who brought the beer?
Last edited by CroK; 11-24-2010 at 01:24 AM.
#18
While some slight drag felt when you start your bike in gear, and cold, would be considered normal... having to put the bike in neutral in order to roll it back is not normal. Anyone who tells you different has no idea what they are talking about.
#19
Thanks CroK.
You really laid it out for me. I have the service manual for my bike and that along with all the good advice I am getting here should help me out. I am going to go back to the shop first and see if I can get them to check this without charging me extra. If not I will give it a shot myself.
You really laid it out for me. I have the service manual for my bike and that along with all the good advice I am getting here should help me out. I am going to go back to the shop first and see if I can get them to check this without charging me extra. If not I will give it a shot myself.
#20
Clutch adjustment is easy to do, just make sure the clutch is cold before adjusting. You can find instructions on here if you don't have a manual. However, I would take it back to shop who performed service and get them to correct it if I paid for the service. If they cannot adjust a clutch properly, they don't need to be in business.