1 - will floorboards from a softail bolt onto a touring bike or will they need to be modified?

2 - is there a noticeable difference between the boards with the anti-vibration and the ones without?

thanks.

 

Great timing: I just went through this yesterday. The answer in my case was that modification was required. The holes for the floor board shoulder bolts were a little too far away from the top of the mounting bracket, so the Crossbones floor boards wouldn't line up.

Crossbones floor boards have an upside down U shape where the shoulder bolts go through, but on my Street Glide floor boards, the tangs that the shoulder bolts go through don't have a top. Man, this is hard to describe without pics. Anyway, I used a simple bench grinder and shaved the top of the front mounting brackets just a hair so that the holes on the Crossbones floor boards would line up. Then, I used some crazy-thick engine enamel I had lying around to touch up the bare metal and prevent rust (after hitting it with a degreaser). I have no doubt that HD made the front brackets like that just so folks who are moving from a softy to a touring have to buy new parts.

If you don't want to go through the trouble, I understand. If you want to see what the heck I'm talking about, let me know, and I'll go out to the barn and click a pic or two.

 

thanks. sounds like they're close, but just different enough that the majority of riders would just buy the ones that bolted right up.

 

Cross bones bards and brackets are different than all of the other softail boards and brackets. Regular softail boards and bagger boards are swappable.

Drew

 

even better that they'll bolt right up.
.
how about the rubber mounted vibration isolating boards, vs the non isolating ones???????

 

YEP. and if you use the extended floorboards, it'll move your feet forward about a 1 1/2". I put a set on my Fatboy, and most recently my RKC.