Fullsac dual conversion and CVO slipons
#1
Fullsac dual conversion and CVO slipons
I just put on a set of CVO slipons I got on ebay and am considering the Fullsac dual conversion. Bike is an '07 UC with PCIII and SE A/C running a canned map. I have read that with the Fullsac dual conversion, both mufflers need to flow the same, which makes sense, and that '07 and later stock mufflers do not: the left muffler is constructed (baffled) differently than the right muffler. Since the CVOs I got are from, supposedly an '04, does anyone know if they are baffled the same?
As a side note, they are pretty freaking quiet so I may consider the 1.75 Fullsac baffles as well, but wanted to try the dual conversion first.
Thanks in advance.
As a side note, they are pretty freaking quiet so I may consider the 1.75 Fullsac baffles as well, but wanted to try the dual conversion first.
Thanks in advance.
#2
#4
#5
#6
Thanks for the replies, makes sense. Both mufflers weigh about the same and look the same down both inlet and exit so I figured they were the same. I am probably going for the Fullsac true dual conversion first to see what it sounds like, but I don't really expect much increase in volume, just a change in sound which is a good thing according to all of you who have tried and liked the true dual conversion.
I guess I am a little shy about modifying the CVOs, not because I lack the ability but because it seems like a one way trip, although I suppose you could drill and re-mount the stock baffles back in just like the Fullsac's are mounted. Also, I am wondering how loud the 1.75 baffles are. I know that's subjective and until I hear them I'll never know, but I don't want anything loud. I had Rinehart slipons and thought they were way too loud: great on the freeway (sounds like Nascar!), but I was shattering glass and killing birds and small children when I cruised through the neighborhood...OK, that's an exaggeration
I'll hunt around one of the local dealers to see if I can find someone who has the Fullsac baffles so I can hear them in person, that's really the only way I am going to know how loud they are.
I guess I am a little shy about modifying the CVOs, not because I lack the ability but because it seems like a one way trip, although I suppose you could drill and re-mount the stock baffles back in just like the Fullsac's are mounted. Also, I am wondering how loud the 1.75 baffles are. I know that's subjective and until I hear them I'll never know, but I don't want anything loud. I had Rinehart slipons and thought they were way too loud: great on the freeway (sounds like Nascar!), but I was shattering glass and killing birds and small children when I cruised through the neighborhood...OK, that's an exaggeration
I'll hunt around one of the local dealers to see if I can find someone who has the Fullsac baffles so I can hear them in person, that's really the only way I am going to know how loud they are.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
I have fullsac's 1.75 in three combination's on three different bikes.
On the a 2010 CVO ConV softail, shorty duals with a prototype muffler and 1.75 fullsac baffles. They are loud because they are dual pipe and short head pipes. You kick this bike and everyone knows all about it. It will set off car alarms in open parking lots if you blip the throttle. These are non production muffs and will not be available to the public.
On the 2010 CVO Street Glide I have Fullsac 2-1-2 head pipe with the 1.75 baffles in the stock CVO cans. Yes, I did the conversion myself and it can be a little nerve racking the first time but only took about an hour to convert them both. The sound level is very quiet but when I twist it up they are loud enough so the guys behind you realize you will be a spec in the distance very soon if they don't try to catch you. The radio is easy to hear and cruise noise level is light to moderate.
On the 07 POSE (Ultra) Trike I have Rinehart TD with the standard baffle. I removed the muffs and had an extra set of CVO cans. I converted them as well. The Rineharts were very loud, too loud for me. The 1.75 baffle were a great change but not as soft as the 2010 SESG with the 2-1-2 head pipe. They are about half the volume of Rinehart TD's.
I hope this helps out... If you don't want to do the CVO conversion, fullsac will do the conversion for you. If you attempt it with a dremel tool like I did remember to knock the old baffles in the can, smooth the weld then knock the old baffles out. If you don't do this the baffles may stick in the can and will be hard to remove.
-wiz
On the a 2010 CVO ConV softail, shorty duals with a prototype muffler and 1.75 fullsac baffles. They are loud because they are dual pipe and short head pipes. You kick this bike and everyone knows all about it. It will set off car alarms in open parking lots if you blip the throttle. These are non production muffs and will not be available to the public.
On the 2010 CVO Street Glide I have Fullsac 2-1-2 head pipe with the 1.75 baffles in the stock CVO cans. Yes, I did the conversion myself and it can be a little nerve racking the first time but only took about an hour to convert them both. The sound level is very quiet but when I twist it up they are loud enough so the guys behind you realize you will be a spec in the distance very soon if they don't try to catch you. The radio is easy to hear and cruise noise level is light to moderate.
On the 07 POSE (Ultra) Trike I have Rinehart TD with the standard baffle. I removed the muffs and had an extra set of CVO cans. I converted them as well. The Rineharts were very loud, too loud for me. The 1.75 baffle were a great change but not as soft as the 2010 SESG with the 2-1-2 head pipe. They are about half the volume of Rinehart TD's.
I hope this helps out... If you don't want to do the CVO conversion, fullsac will do the conversion for you. If you attempt it with a dremel tool like I did remember to knock the old baffles in the can, smooth the weld then knock the old baffles out. If you don't do this the baffles may stick in the can and will be hard to remove.
-wiz
#9
Thanks Wizard, appreciate the advice. I found this: http://projects.jamesnkerr.com/2008/...on-09-cvo.html which shows it step by step and it looks easy. Your sound "comparisons" helped - I may just go for the baffles because that's really what I am looking for: something relatively quiet at low rpms but that wakes up when you get on the wick. Am I correct in assuming the smaller the baffle diameter, the quieter: 1.75's being quieter than 2.25+ ?
Found out a few minutes ago my muffs are 65254-00A, which looks to be off a 2003/4 CVO bike so the ebay seller wasn't lying. The bike actually runs great and pulls just fine, it's just it's a little quiet, not bad, but I would like a little more bark.
Thanks again all, now I have something to think about.
Found out a few minutes ago my muffs are 65254-00A, which looks to be off a 2003/4 CVO bike so the ebay seller wasn't lying. The bike actually runs great and pulls just fine, it's just it's a little quiet, not bad, but I would like a little more bark.
Thanks again all, now I have something to think about.
#10
yup.. I've seen that posted on the CVO forum as well.
If you have a dremel tool, use the wiz wheel (no pun intended) it's the thin wafer disk. This was the best for grinding down the edge of the interior weld. But you must get it smooth.
Take the muffler can and smack the inlet end on a block of wood. This will push the stock baffle back into the can, breaking the weld cleanly and give you enough room to smooth it down so the stock baffle will slide out with the assistance of a broom handle or a piece of pipe.
Next, don't mess with the insulation. Leave it in the can and slide the new baffle in. This will give you the best sound in my book. I've tried it both ways and like the insulation in. Once you get your drilled hole and the hole in the new baffle ring lined up you will be free to install the end cap and the mufflers on your pipes.
Good luck and have fun. It's a lot easier than it sounds. (again, no pun intended)
-wiz
If you have a dremel tool, use the wiz wheel (no pun intended) it's the thin wafer disk. This was the best for grinding down the edge of the interior weld. But you must get it smooth.
Take the muffler can and smack the inlet end on a block of wood. This will push the stock baffle back into the can, breaking the weld cleanly and give you enough room to smooth it down so the stock baffle will slide out with the assistance of a broom handle or a piece of pipe.
Next, don't mess with the insulation. Leave it in the can and slide the new baffle in. This will give you the best sound in my book. I've tried it both ways and like the insulation in. Once you get your drilled hole and the hole in the new baffle ring lined up you will be free to install the end cap and the mufflers on your pipes.
Good luck and have fun. It's a lot easier than it sounds. (again, no pun intended)
-wiz