Went to the Darkside(car tire)today
#551
11-25-2011, 10:17 AM
It's all in the beholder's senses.
Get yourself a car tire mounted on your scoot, then come on here and give us your limited experience with it, and stop asking, how does it feel making love?
#552
11-25-2011, 10:19 AM
http://store.cokertire.com/550r16-co...hitewall.html#
Ok you CT Gurus...will this tire fit an 06 RKC. Read on the DS forum that someone used this size. I would like to stay with WWW. Current is Dunlop MU85B16.
Ok you CT Gurus...will this tire fit an 06 RKC. Read on the DS forum that someone used this size. I would like to stay with WWW. Current is Dunlop MU85B16.
Last edited by billk; 11-25-2011 at 10:27 AM.
#553
11-25-2011, 10:41 AM
I feel I had to put on a flame-resistant suit to step into this thread, but:
I'm 90% sure Im'a try the dark side. The wife is hesitant for me to. I've seen plenty of videos showing the contact patch for a CT, but haven't found one showing a MT for comparison to help convince her. Any out there?
I'm 90% sure Im'a try the dark side. The wife is hesitant for me to. I've seen plenty of videos showing the contact patch for a CT, but haven't found one showing a MT for comparison to help convince her. Any out there?
#554
11-25-2011, 12:52 PM
Elite HDF Member
Wrong again. Most CT's are looking in the 20's to 32 psi on a car? We mostly run in the mid-30's. Sweet spot pressure isn't some magical wonderland where suddenly the bike becomes a canyon racer.
It's where pressure is high enough for the tire not to WALLOW in a hard, peg scraping corner, and low enough that it doesn't try to follow every diagonal groove in the pavement; a slight problem they have on the back of a bike at high pressure.
Most old posts in the DS forums have people telling others to start out at 40 psi. That isn't where we end up; it's just a comparison pressure as will be wallowing when you get to the bottom. Like an analog radio tuner, your station is directly between those two pressures. It doesn't mean to KEEP 40 in there.
Contact patch. This one is easy - just ride through a wet spot, straight and cornering, and go back to look at your tire prints. You will be very convinced. Especially if a buddy on a MT goes with you.
I guess I'm done here. Anything else is nit-picking at nothing.
It's where pressure is high enough for the tire not to WALLOW in a hard, peg scraping corner, and low enough that it doesn't try to follow every diagonal groove in the pavement; a slight problem they have on the back of a bike at high pressure.
Most old posts in the DS forums have people telling others to start out at 40 psi. That isn't where we end up; it's just a comparison pressure as will be wallowing when you get to the bottom. Like an analog radio tuner, your station is directly between those two pressures. It doesn't mean to KEEP 40 in there.
Contact patch. This one is easy - just ride through a wet spot, straight and cornering, and go back to look at your tire prints. You will be very convinced. Especially if a buddy on a MT goes with you.
I guess I'm done here. Anything else is nit-picking at nothing.
A wider contact patch in the wet isn't always a good thing but point taken.
Is there some photos of lean angle contact patch comparisons? I can't find any but would love to see them. Thanks again.
#555
11-25-2011, 02:11 PM
Club Member
#556
11-25-2011, 02:29 PM
Elite HDF Member
Lots of arguing back and forth that won't be needed as soon as Michelin releases its recently announced 25K miles motorcycle tire. It's coming.........
Of course, this won't prevent the die-hard darksiders to require 30K miles or more out of a tire, just to keep the discussion alive.
Funny stuff indeed. LOL
Of course, this won't prevent the die-hard darksiders to require 30K miles or more out of a tire, just to keep the discussion alive.
Funny stuff indeed. LOL
#557
11-25-2011, 02:38 PM
Car tire
Folks,
I am one of the first harley owners that put on a CT (search for Car Tire on my Road King) about 17,000 miles ago. I caught hell for doing so.
I have not been riding much because of big and sudden changes in my life, but the dust settled down, I am in a different state (Arizona) and riding is picking back up.
At 17,000 miles, and three plugs (3, tres, lol) including a pretty, shiny blue, double threaded Tapcon concrete anchor screw, my tire barely shows wear, its soft and sticky, and still rides awesome, to the point of reaffirming why I am not going back to a MT.
Running underinflated, you say? weeeeelllllllllll..... that is hard to say. My Tundra double cab says inflate to 44 PSI in the tire sidewall, but the sticker in the door jamb from the truck manufacturer says inflate to 32 PSI. So, given the light weight of my bike compared to my Tundra, if I run it at 28 or 30 or 26 PSI, is it underinflated? not likely. Running two-up with a load in the trunk and saddlebags it doesn't even hint at running hot, heat being the main indicator of an underinflated tire, right before it goes bang!
Like Quadancer said, we don't run on the sidewalls, the sidewalls flex. Picture this: When a car is parked, there is a bulge on the bottom of the tires, the sidewalls are flexed, supporting the weight of the car. As the car starts to move, the bulge is still there, the sidewalls flexing as the tire rotates. In a sharp corner, the sidewalls flex and deform, towards the outside of the turn, keeping the thread in contact with the pavement, making the tire stick. This didn't happen to the same degree in the old glass belted "performance" bias tires, with a stiff sidewall, which had a propensity to scare the living daylights out of the driver when giving away suddenly in a corner, hehe. Remember that?
In a motorcycle, the inside sidewall flexes in a turn, and this results in close to half of the thread staying in contact with the pavement. No wonder they are so sweet in fast, long sweepers, lol. And they are way ahead of a MT in sharp, bumpy turns. They have the characteristic of being very forgiving (unlike a MT) of sloppy handling. In my case, once I get commited to a turn, I can still change my line without getting into a wooble or getting myself in trouble because of hitting debris, gravel, etc. Downpours are a non-issue. It rained all night, and to get my bike out I have to ride in the mud a short distance, no big deal with the CT, I just have to be careful not to allow the front tire to wash out from under me.
Folks, no need to argue with the naysayers. CTs work, we know because we use them. There will always be somebody that has no clue, coming in to argue something that they may not have even seen, let alone use.
The sun is coming out, the mud is drying out, I am going back out riding. Y'all have a blessed day!
I am one of the first harley owners that put on a CT (search for Car Tire on my Road King) about 17,000 miles ago. I caught hell for doing so.
I have not been riding much because of big and sudden changes in my life, but the dust settled down, I am in a different state (Arizona) and riding is picking back up.
At 17,000 miles, and three plugs (3, tres, lol) including a pretty, shiny blue, double threaded Tapcon concrete anchor screw, my tire barely shows wear, its soft and sticky, and still rides awesome, to the point of reaffirming why I am not going back to a MT.
Running underinflated, you say? weeeeelllllllllll..... that is hard to say. My Tundra double cab says inflate to 44 PSI in the tire sidewall, but the sticker in the door jamb from the truck manufacturer says inflate to 32 PSI. So, given the light weight of my bike compared to my Tundra, if I run it at 28 or 30 or 26 PSI, is it underinflated? not likely. Running two-up with a load in the trunk and saddlebags it doesn't even hint at running hot, heat being the main indicator of an underinflated tire, right before it goes bang!
Like Quadancer said, we don't run on the sidewalls, the sidewalls flex. Picture this: When a car is parked, there is a bulge on the bottom of the tires, the sidewalls are flexed, supporting the weight of the car. As the car starts to move, the bulge is still there, the sidewalls flexing as the tire rotates. In a sharp corner, the sidewalls flex and deform, towards the outside of the turn, keeping the thread in contact with the pavement, making the tire stick. This didn't happen to the same degree in the old glass belted "performance" bias tires, with a stiff sidewall, which had a propensity to scare the living daylights out of the driver when giving away suddenly in a corner, hehe. Remember that?
In a motorcycle, the inside sidewall flexes in a turn, and this results in close to half of the thread staying in contact with the pavement. No wonder they are so sweet in fast, long sweepers, lol. And they are way ahead of a MT in sharp, bumpy turns. They have the characteristic of being very forgiving (unlike a MT) of sloppy handling. In my case, once I get commited to a turn, I can still change my line without getting into a wooble or getting myself in trouble because of hitting debris, gravel, etc. Downpours are a non-issue. It rained all night, and to get my bike out I have to ride in the mud a short distance, no big deal with the CT, I just have to be careful not to allow the front tire to wash out from under me.
Folks, no need to argue with the naysayers. CTs work, we know because we use them. There will always be somebody that has no clue, coming in to argue something that they may not have even seen, let alone use.
The sun is coming out, the mud is drying out, I am going back out riding. Y'all have a blessed day!
#558
11-25-2011, 02:48 PM
You got it bassackwards!
The OP never asked anyone's opinion on whether or not to try a car tire...
It is the people who haven't tried a car tire, who have no experience but believe they know everything who are keeping this thread going.
#559
11-25-2011, 04:21 PM
Elite HDF Member
]
Ah I see now. The sidewall flexes to the outside rather than tucking under the bike. I get it. The fact it does that for a motorcycle at standard inflation pressures is very interesting.
That must explain why it works for touring bikes with moderate low, low 30 degree lean angles. But if leaned over too far, it's riding that flexed area if not farther causing unstable handling or for it to suddenly tuck under. Like a BMW S1000 with 48 degrees for street tires and 53 degrees allowed in the ECU for slicks.
Now I see why it can't be used in racing/track days is because of lean angles.
Okay, thank you, makes sense now. I would be curious now to see a poll, would a 25k Michelin MT tire convert CT users?
Like Quadancer said, we don't run on the sidewalls, the sidewalls flex. Picture this: When a car is parked, there is a bulge on the bottom of the tires, the sidewalls are flexed, supporting the weight of the car. As the car starts to move, the bulge is still there, the sidewalls flexing as the tire rotates. In a sharp corner, the sidewalls flex and deform, towards the outside of the turn, keeping the thread in contact with the pavement, making the tire stick.
In a motorcycle, the inside sidewall flexes in a turn, and this results in close to half of the thread staying in contact with the pavement. No wonder they are so sweet in fast, long sweepers, lol. And they are way ahead of a MT in sharp, bumpy turns. They have the characteristic of being very forgiving (unlike a MT) of sloppy handling. In my case, once I get commited to a turn, I can still change my line without getting into a wooble or getting myself in trouble because of hitting debris, gravel, etc. Downpours are a non-issue. It rained all night, and to get my bike out I have to ride in the mud a short distance, no big deal with the CT, I just have to be careful not to allow the front tire to wash out from under me.
In a motorcycle, the inside sidewall flexes in a turn, and this results in close to half of the thread staying in contact with the pavement. No wonder they are so sweet in fast, long sweepers, lol. And they are way ahead of a MT in sharp, bumpy turns. They have the characteristic of being very forgiving (unlike a MT) of sloppy handling. In my case, once I get commited to a turn, I can still change my line without getting into a wooble or getting myself in trouble because of hitting debris, gravel, etc. Downpours are a non-issue. It rained all night, and to get my bike out I have to ride in the mud a short distance, no big deal with the CT, I just have to be careful not to allow the front tire to wash out from under me.
That must explain why it works for touring bikes with moderate low, low 30 degree lean angles. But if leaned over too far, it's riding that flexed area if not farther causing unstable handling or for it to suddenly tuck under. Like a BMW S1000 with 48 degrees for street tires and 53 degrees allowed in the ECU for slicks.
Now I see why it can't be used in racing/track days is because of lean angles.
Okay, thank you, makes sense now. I would be curious now to see a poll, would a 25k Michelin MT tire convert CT users?
Last edited by Deuuuce; 11-25-2011 at 04:24 PM.
#560
11-26-2011, 09:11 AM
http://store.cokertire.com/550r16-co...hitewall.html#
Ok you CT Gurus...will this tire fit an 06 RKC. Read on the DS forum that someone used this size. I would like to stay with WWW. Current is Dunlop MU85B16.
Ok you CT Gurus...will this tire fit an 06 RKC. Read on the DS forum that someone used this size. I would like to stay with WWW. Current is Dunlop MU85B16.
http://darkside.nwff.info/database.php
Whitewalls are gonna be a problem. I wonder if those old snap-on whitewalls for blackwall tires are still out there.