Do you put in if you think the lifters are already bled down?
Here is what happened. I rotated the motor till both rear cylinder cam lobes were on the base circle. I installed the pushrods, adjusted them the prescribed 2 1/2 turns out and waited ten minutes. It took as many flats to loosen them before I could rotate the pushrods as I put on to bleed down the lifters. Seems like they are already bled down, so how much room (flats) do you leave so they will function?

 

While it is possible they coud be bled down already, ten minutes never seemed to be enough time to me...

Adjust the PRs according to directions, then have a beer or two. Go check yer eMail, surf a coupla **** sites, take a nap, and then go see if it will turn over...

Also, are you sure you aren't just feeling the compression stroke?
Strike that, dumb question. You should have the plugs out while installing the Adj. PRs...

I had the same feeling on first install of mine. I re-adjusted them, then went back to the house for almost an hour. When I came back, I ran the starter over to fill the lifters. Was fearful, but figured it was either enough time or I'd soon have to replace the bent PRs and maybe a valve or two! Luck was with me this time!

If you really want to be sure there is oil in the lifters, pull 'em out and put them in a small container filled with oil. Then work the valve (of the lifter) with one of the old pushrods, until you see oil pumping out. Reinstall lifters and PRs with correct adjustment...

After you have adjusted the PRs, you shouldn't be able to turn them by hand... You turn them out until there is no slack, but can still turn them by hand. THEN you do the 2 1/2 turns. Shouldn't be able to turn them by hand now. After reading over your post, I got the idea that you believe you can after they bleed down?

 

Will give it more time. I got another response from elsewhere that indicated if the lifters are fully bled down, then two and one half turns loose will put them in the middle of plunger travel which is where they need to be. Will crank motor to insure proper pump up as you suggest if that is what I do. Thanks again.

 

Refresh the window, I edited my post, maybe you didn't get the final?

 

I edit my posts too much after I read what I typed...

I wasn't suggesting that you do what I did, (turning it over with the starter). It could do some serious damage if everything isn't right!

 

I think I follow what you are getting at. Mainly, as I understand it, the lifters should bleed down enough over time so that they can be rotated easily. If not, then they are adjusted too far in and can do damage as you specify. The lifters were out of the bike over night, so it is possible they lost oil.

 

you want the pushrod in the middle of the lifter throw.

So, assuming the lifter is full, and you adjust it, you're going to compress it slightly (less than 1/2) by tightening the pushrod.

This will make the pushrod very tight. You won't be able to spin it.


Now, once the lifter has bled down naturally (i'd wait 30 - 45 mins minimum) , then you'll have reintroduced some minor slack into the rod, and the rod should spin between your fingers, albeit much more difficult than if it was loose.


here's a good video.

[youtube]8QtPzDErch8[/youtube]

 

Yer right...

You can turn them with more effort. I guess it comes down to how the person speaking explains him/herself. As you can imagine, I was meaning to say, they should not turn without any effort...

 

This may just be phrasing, but what you've written doesn't make sense. A cam lobe is always the lobe, & the heel (or base circle) is just the other side of the cam. You can't rotate a lobe to the base circle. You also don't get both lifters of a cylinder on the base (heel) at the same time. You do them one at a time.

Install the push rods adjusted to their shortest. By hand, rotate the motor till a push rod for one cylinder is at it's highest position, then adjust the same push rod for the *other* cylinder. That one will be on the base circle (heel). Adjust all four push rods that way. Never start, or spin the motor with the starter! If a push rod is out of adjustment you may bend a valve stem.

When you finish there should be *NO* slack! Zero lash on the heel of the cam, but you can rotate the push rod with your fingers. At any other position you'll be either on the ramp or lobe of the cam & the push rod will be impossible to rotate with your fingers. If you are on the heel (base circle) & can't rotate the push rod with your fingers you have too much preload & need to readjust.

 

Although I primarily work on evos, I beg to differ with the above. You can put both lifters for the same cylinder on the base lobe of the cam at the same time. I've been adjusting pushrods that way for over 20 years. Anywhere that you are not on the ramp is considered the base circle for all practical purposes. There obviously has to be a place where both lobes for a cylinder are on the base circle, or else there would be no compression stroke. It seems some people over complicate push rod adjustment. It's not rocket science. There is .200" travel in the lifters, all we are trying to do is adjust the pushrod so that the piston in the lifter runs somewhere in this .200" operation range when the engine is cold and also when it is hot when cylinder expansion is added. I've heard varying estimates concerning how much cylinders actually grow in height, anywhere form .015" to .035" You can see there is alot of room for error there.