Touring Models Road King, Road King Custom, Road King Classic, Road Glide, Street Glide, Electra Glide, Electra Glide Classic, and Electra Glide Ultra Classic bikes.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Heritage bars

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 10-25-2010, 01:27 AM
pargenz's Avatar
pargenz
pargenz is offline
Outstanding HDF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Fennario
Posts: 2,183
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Question Heritage bars

Who has replaced their stock Road King bars with Heritage bars?
Did you do the swap yourself? Difficult? Any other parts needed?

TIA
 
  #2  
Old 10-25-2010, 01:41 AM
merc64's Avatar
merc64
merc64 is offline
Cruiser
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: metro-Atlanta
Posts: 104
Received 22 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

I did the swap myself. 2010 RK, did not need new cables or anything. If you have a service manual pretty easy to do it yourself.
 
  #3  
Old 10-25-2010, 01:42 AM
OddJob's Avatar
OddJob
OddJob is offline
Advanced
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 94
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Well, I did swap mine out, but I have a RK Custom that originally had the beach bars so I had plenty of cable length to work with. PO swapped out the beach bars with stock Road King bars (who knows why) and that's what I got to replace. I found that after I loosened the bars and undid all the wiring clips, I didn't have to undo the throttle cables or the clutch cable. With a little jockeying everything slid off the end and onto the end of the new bars. However, if you have a standard Road King or Classic, you might not be quite as lucky. I have been told that the stock cables are long enough, but you will probably have to disconnect them in order to get everything to fit back on.

If you have never taken the bars off the bike before, it may be a bit confusing to find how everything attaches. First thing, take off the headlight cover and remove the headlight. There's 1 screw on the chrome trim ring and 8 screws that hold the headlight assembly in place. After that most things are pretty common sense. I found a post on here somewhere that described it in detail. Search and I am sure you will find it.
 
  #4  
Old 10-25-2010, 02:18 AM
coliseum's Avatar
coliseum
coliseum is offline
Tourer
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Dubai, UAE
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

2008 RKC... but i got it done at the dealer... cables fit fine...
 
  #5  
Old 10-25-2010, 02:57 AM
PKellyMc's Avatar
PKellyMc
PKellyMc is offline
Outstanding HDF Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: PacNW; Beacon of Conservatism in a Sea of Liberals.......AZ Snowbird; Just another Conservative
Posts: 2,456
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

'07 RKC. Did it myself and it was easy.
 
  #6  
Old 10-25-2010, 03:52 AM
STUNU's Avatar
STUNU
STUNU is offline
Tourer
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SOUTH JERSEY
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

pargenz, its a piece of cake if u have even the littlest of ability. i have an 06flhr did it in about hour and 20 mins. nothing new is needed plenty of length on everthing.just take your time and put everthing back just like you took it off. if you live near south jersey pm me and i will give you a hand. goodluck
 
  #7  
Old 10-25-2010, 09:48 AM
Port Dawg's Avatar
Port Dawg
Port Dawg is offline
Road Warrior
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

You have a 2010 so you also have the TBW sensor....I'm trying to decide if I want to have these bars installed as well. I may be getting a Mustang seat with a backrest so I might wait and see if that changes my riding position and brings me a bit closer to the bars
 
  #8  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:12 AM
pargenz's Avatar
pargenz
pargenz is offline
Outstanding HDF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Fennario
Posts: 2,183
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by STUNU
pargenz, its a piece of cake if u have even the littlest of ability. i have an 06flhr did it in about hour and 20 mins. nothing new is needed plenty of length on everthing.just take your time and put everthing back just like you took it off. if you live near south jersey pm me and i will give you a hand. goodluck
Thanks stunu, but any part of Jersey is a little far.
 
  #9  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:15 AM
pargenz's Avatar
pargenz
pargenz is offline
Outstanding HDF Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Fennario
Posts: 2,183
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Port Dawg
You have a 2010 so you also have the TBW sensor....I'm trying to decide if I want to have these bars installed as well. I may be getting a Mustang seat with a backrest so I might wait and see if that changes my riding position and brings me a bit closer to the bars
Yes, mine is a '10... I am also waiting until I change out the stock seat for a solo (either Mustang or Danny Gray) before I consider the bars. I've just heard alot of folks talking about the better fit with Heritage bars.
From what I've read, at least on the Mustang solo seat, is that it's a little lower and further back than stock.

I have also found many threads here regarding the topic.
 
  #10  
Old 10-25-2010, 10:32 AM
caberto's Avatar
caberto
caberto is offline
Road Master
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Acton, CA
Posts: 752
Received 22 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

I changed them out myself on my 2010 Road King with the Heritage Style bars. Not difficult at all, just takes time, care, and a little patience so you don't bang stuff around. The position, comfort and control is SO MUCH better! It's like a whole different bike that's so much better to ride.

Here is a write up I found online... can't remember the source... sorry, but it's the best write up I found for the TBW bars. Be sure you follow each step and pay attention to the little details and warnings - they are important. I replaced my grips at the same time, so I didn't do the boiling water thing to remove and re-use the old clutch side grip.
-------------------------------------------------

I changed mine out about four month ago, Didn't have any problems doing the job. I am a retired Coast guard Chief Engineer so I do have a little mechanical ability.

I wrote up these instructions, maybe they'll give you an idea of whats involved.

First, before you do anything. Put a heavy towels over the gas tank and front fender to protect them if you drop something.

Remove you quick release windshield and put it someplace safe and out of the way.

Next remove the headlight front trim. Take the screw out of the bottom. Pull the bottom out and lift up.

Next, remove the head light several screws around outside. Do not touch the adjuster screws. You can let the headlight hang by it's wires.

Next, remove the spear on top of the light, remove the nut from the inside front and lift off the spear. it just hooks into the handle bar cover.

Next, remove the handlebar center cover. Pry up the cover over the fork lock and remove the screws underneath. now remove the screw and nut on the front. A little hard to reach, don't loose the nut.

Remove the cover.

Now remove the throttle side headlight shell, remove the two nut that hold the windshield quick release washers and slide the shell off.

Unplug wires going to handle bars. Only the ones that go into the hole in the center of the handlebars.

Next, remove the clutch and front brake lever assembles and let them hang.

Next, split the switch control housing and pull the wire keepers out of the handle bars and let the hang.

Slide the throttle grip off.

At this point the only thing that should be left on the handle bars is is the clutch side grip and the throttle by wire rheostat assembly.

Time to remove the the handle bars. Remove the 4 Allen bolts on the handle bar clamp. Don't let the handle bars swing down and hit the tank.

The handle bars are now off. take a break.

The next step is best done on a work bench. Set the handle bars on the work surface. Pull the TBW out of the handle bar. Now feed the harness for TBW into the center of the handle while pulling the TBW rheostat out till the connector inside the handlebar comes well out of the grip end.

Now be careful and and unplug the rheostat assy from the harness. i used a jewels screw diver to lift the tab that locks the harness.

Once the harness is unplugged pull the harness out of the handle bar.

Dis-assemble done.

Re-assembly put the TBW harness in the new handlebar, plug the TBS back together a and slide the TBW back into the handle bar and align to the notch.

Now boil some water, that right boil some water. Pot deep enough to submerge the grip on the old handle bar. Put the grip in the water and let it set for a couple of min. grab the grip with a towel (it's Hot) and twist. Repeat till the grip comes off.

Reassemble in reverse order.

Actually about 6 inches down in the handle bar was a lil green plug from the twist sensor grip. Unplug the wire in headlight assembly, gently slide the twist sensor off and gently pull wire out the handle bar with twist sensor. Unplug the lil green plug inside handlebar, pull that harness back out handlebar from the bottom, fish a small piece of wire through new handlebar, attach around lil green plug on wire harness and pull back through new bars. Attach lil green plug back to twist sensor and gently pull from bottom until twist grip slides into locking position. No special tools needed, no problems were encountered.
 

Last edited by caberto; 10-25-2010 at 10:41 AM.


Quick Reply: Heritage bars



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:02 PM.