Amsoil all 3 holes as well

 

For the last 20K miles I have been using 5W-20W in the primary, clutch is very smooth with very little "clunk". I have also tried ATF, but I felt like it made the clutch grab when taking off (something like a lock up clutch on a drag car).

 

ATF, because you have GM designed clutch plates designed for atf, the chain can almost use any lubricant you put in it, the difference is in the clutch plates. That's what I have been told by an old drag racing indy. He had 140,000+ miles on his ultra so can't be too bad.

 

Probably because that WalMart "cr*p" (in my example, Mobil1 20:50) has more moly in it than does Syn3. Possibly because it costs about $25 for all three holes vs. $75, definitely a savings of more than $2. Of course, maybe my RPN HP calculator needs batteries, back to WalMart I guess...

 

I think you missed my point. My point is not WHAT they use, its the simple fact they all use something DIFFERENT.

These teams have millions of dollars on the line. If there was an oil that was better than the rest - you better bet your bottom dollar they would all be using it.

Every single brand oil sold in the USA meets the same specs. Can anyone provide a single case of engine failure caused by an inferior oil used? Not caused by failure to change regularly..failure caused by insufficient lubrication that was caused by the OIL itself?

I have never heard of such a case....

 

I just use old french fry oil in all 3 holes.

Added benefit is it smells good.

 

I don't think it matters which top-tier oil you use as long as you change it every 5k miles and install a fresh filter. It's more a function of the additive packages breaking down; losing it's friction reduction properties; the pressure resistance properties, especially for solid-lifter motors; and, removing the corrosive combustion by-products that get deposited in the oil as it cleans than the base lubricant stock. Reductions in these additives in the name of "green" have caused more harm than the oil. It's almost a minor character in this play. There's only so many refineries or labs in the country that produce the base chemistry. Everything else is what is in their additives. For 90% of the motors in the world, the Walmart stuff is every bit as good as the name-brand stuff, assuming you change on schedule, or sooner if your motor experiences a severe duty-cycle, which most don't. I wouldn't run any oil beyond 5,000 miles either in a car or a bike.

 

You need to avoid "energy conserving" oil or those with "friction modifiers", these will cause clutch slippage. I run HD Formula+ in the primary and trans. I use SYN3 in the crankcase.

 

HD Formula +, the only HD lubricant I use.

 

I think we missed each others point...LOL. I know they use a lot of different brands of oil. I do believe they use Synthetic Motor oils. That was my point.