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New cams for stock 88.

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  #11  
Old 10-04-2010, 04:31 PM
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I have done the 21's, 26's and SE204's. If I was racing for titles on similar set ups and the race was 50-90mph in top gear I would most definetly go with the 21's. On an 88" the 21's would win hands down. I actually spoke in person with Doug Coffey (owner of headquarters) and he talked me out of the 0034's and he told me that he wanted to develope a cam like the 21's but that at the time the 96" bikes just came out and he had to focus on making cams for those bikes. He told me he really liked the numbers of the 21's on a touring bike.
 
  #12  
Old 10-04-2010, 08:19 PM
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Pingman,

If his bike is carbed, would the associated costs be reasonable? Or even a lot less?

I'm going to be looking into my tensioners tomorrow and my big concern is hearing some people say how difficult it is to get the cover off!

I'll follow this thread because I've been wanting to do the cam swap also, and if the tensioners look like crap, I'll be following secondchances footsteps.


 

Last edited by Yachtman; 10-04-2010 at 09:16 PM.
  #13  
Old 10-04-2010, 09:09 PM
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We went with the Andrews 21Gs based on this and other articles, and couldn't be happier. Going with the gear drive elimates the cam chain tensioner problems forever, but it's also made in the chain drive.

http://www.americanrider.com/output.cfm?id=1205749
 
  #14  
Old 10-05-2010, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Wizid
I just did over my tensioners and went with the newer HD inner cam plate, hydraulic tensioners, and oil pump. Make sure you upgrade the inner cam bearings to Torringtons while your in there. I went with the 26n cams and really like them. They give plenty of low end torque and dont run out of steam as quickly as the 21's.
Wizid, you say to replace the bearings with Torringtons. Are the Timkins bearing any better or worse? That and just say I don't replace the cams now and decide to leave the bearings as they are forsaying they don't have any gauld or burnt spots on them. I have been VERY religious on oil changes and have used synth. since I bought it at 9k and now over 30K and have not pounded the hell out of it.
 

Last edited by SecondChance!!; 10-06-2010 at 10:46 AM.
  #15  
Old 10-05-2010, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Yachtman
Pingman,

If his bike is carbed, would the associated costs be reasonable? Or even a lot less?

I'm going to be looking into my tensioners tomorrow and my big concern is hearing some people say how difficult it is to get the cover off!

I'll follow this thread because I've been wanting to do the cam swap also, and if the tensioners look like crap, I'll be following secondchances footsteps.


I have no experience with carb'd bike, but you'd probably need to rejet the carb and get a new ignition which is less costly than SERT and dyno tuning.

Carl
 
  #16  
Old 10-05-2010, 10:46 AM
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If your going in there, you will kick yourself in the butt later if you don't go gear drive.
 
  #17  
Old 10-05-2010, 10:51 AM
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If going gear drive make sure to measure your crank run out first. I cannot remember the spec offhand, but this is pretty darn important before going to gear drive.

Drew
 
  #18  
Old 10-05-2010, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Mississippirider
If your going in there, you will kick yourself in the butt later if you don't go gear drive.
As much I would like to go gear drive, I don't have the $$$$ for it now. The OL has been off work since July and I drew out some money out of my retirement fund to cover the bills and that was one of the stipulations of it. She was called for work this week and begins next week finally, but has to go out of state for it. The parts were already ordered and on the way when this all happened. I wanted to get it done before something happened and I already had to take the exhaust off for the "Y" pipe broke while I was riding to work. 6 miles with wide open rear jug exhaust made for 2 cooked eggs and 2/3rd done ham!!!!!!!
 
  #19  
Old 10-05-2010, 09:20 PM
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With the new hydalic tensioner kit, gear drive is not as attractive (or needed) an option as it was before.
 
  #20  
Old 10-05-2010, 10:49 PM
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I replaced my tensioners w/ new spring loaded, at the time I did it, it was that or gears, that's all that was available at the time, and all I could afford. Put in SE 203 while we were at it cause I got em cheap. 05 FLHT, carbed, and it does indeed pull harder in the upper rpm's. I can't comment on anything else, but I like em, better than stock at least. Sound cool as hell w/ the carb too, and the rhinehart duals. I hear the 203 and 204 are pretty close, as you would expect. As much as I love those duals, they're the real torque hp problem w/ the bike though I think.
 


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