I have installed over the winter the 107” heavy duty cilinderkit with the 10.25cr pistons, Woods 555 camschaft, Woods directional lifters, fuelmoto adj pushrods. Stock heads with new AV&V hp springs, shimmed to equal pressure. Cleant and smooted out porting. Feuling OE+oilingpump and camplate kit. SE heavy breather, Sert, Vance&Hines High output short with the silent Db killer. 129 ft/lbs and 97hp on the rear wheel. All tuned by a Dutch expert in Harley tuning on the dyno. there is Some more to gain with de db killer removed, but the bike is to loud then. Next challenge is to put the torgue into forward speed without losing the beltdrive and going to sprocket and chain. This all is done on my 2010 Fatbob.
Just not seeing where you're getting 129ftlbs of torque out of this setup.
If I had to do it again on a Dyna I would-be do it differeently. I would go no biggetjes then 103” and do a higher compression with a cilhead flow job with biggetjes valves. Better exhaust system with correct flow en equal length headers. 50mm throttlebody. Then tune the engine with the cams to control the total airflow. Then U can choose were you want the torq and hp depending on how you drive the bike.
I am happy howe the bike drives now, but I have more torque then you need on a Dyna. Even two way up and in the mountains. But for touringbikes and Tri-Glides it would be a great set-up.
We us the metric scale of Newton/ meters I guess I was misstaken 1,6 ft/lbs
So help me understand what I'm looking at. You'll see in the dyno sheet posted above, the power scale on the left and the torque scale on the right are the same. Yours is different on each scale. Also all dyno sheets I've ever seen, the hp and tq cross at 5,250 rpms. Yours cross at 3900. Why is that? Not trying to beat you up about it just trying to understand what I'm seeing on your sheet.
What is the parts breakdown on your build? And specifically around your exhaust system? I want to buy new black slip-ons, and want something that will keep me at the power I am at.
So help me understand what I'm looking at. You'll see in the dyno sheet posted above, the power scale on the left and the torque scale on the right are the same. Yours is different on each scale. Also all dyno sheets I've ever seen, the hp and tq cross at 5,250 rpms. Yours cross at 3900. Why is that? Not trying to beat you up about it just trying to understand what I'm seeing on your sheet.
The left scale is the HP and the right is torque in Newton/meters. The killer is my choice in exhaust for this build. And then esspecialy the silent db killer. If I don’t use that and place the stock insert in it I gain about 7-9hp en loose a little torque. And the torque/hp crossing moves to the right. I am now experimenting to make my own db killer
The left scale is the HP and the right is torque in Newton/meters. The killer is my choice in exhaust for this build. And then esspecialy the silent db killer. If I don’t use that and place the stock insert in it I gain about 7-9hp en loose a little torque. And the torque/hp crossing moves to the right. I am now experimenting to make my own db killer
The standard cil heads and 46mm Tb will not help eather in moving the tq/hp crossing to the right. Further on a more aggresive cam wil help a Dyna
Nothing you do should make the crossing point move to the left or right.
If the dyno is calibrated correctly, hp and tq should always cross at 5252. Regardless of what your engine mods are.
Nothing you do should make the crossing point move to the left or right.
If the dyno is calibrated correctly, hp and tq should always cross at 5252. Regardless of what your engine mods are.
okay, I did not know that. I am going to ask the dynoshop why this is different on there Dyno.
03-17-2015, 05:44 PM
